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i just put together a fuzz (not a kit) and it only works when i connect it to a one spot and not a battery. the battery is newish and reads 9.4 volts. any ideas what i might be doing wrong?
double check your connections from your battery to the power jack. maybe check the voltage across the battery + and ground to make sure you're not shorting anything out?
turns out i had the 3dpt switch wired wrong thanks for the replies though!
i was also wondering if anyone knows if a fabtone can be switched over to true bypass and also which of the caps (or other components ) can be switched out in order to get rid of a high pitch squeal that occurs when the treble knob is up or give it an all around bassier tone in general? here are some shots: (switch)
theres a guy on youtube that had a 3dpt next to the original switch.it looks like theres space inside for it too. im guessing theres more to it than just switching out the switches?i guess a true bypass loop makes more sense
comtrails70 wrote:theres a guy on youtube that had a 3dpt next to the original switch.it looks like theres space inside for it too. im guessing theres more to it than just switching out the switches?i guess a true bypass loop makes more sense
There's not a whole lot more to it than switching out the switches. If you look up 3dpt wiring and find all the points on your board/jacks you should be fine.
comtrails70 wrote:theres a guy on youtube that had a 3dpt next to the original switch.it looks like theres space inside for it too. im guessing theres more to it than just switching out the switches?i guess a true bypass loop makes more sense
There's not a whole lot more to it than switching out the switches. If you look up 3dpt wiring and find all the points on your board/jacks you should be fine.
Need to decide if the buffer part of the circuit will be left in or not as well. As for having space for a 3pdt, you can take out the button/switch that's in there now and it will fit.
Some things I did for a "friends" Fab (which I still have and seems will nvr get rid of)...removed c5 (scooped the mids a bit), discrete switching from led/diode or asy 3 diode clipping. The led lights up based on pick attack & "fab". Went through several to find a good one. If you remove the clipping altogether, it will have more range (od through distortion), instead of just DISTORTION. You can still get that overthetop sound with the "fab" cranked.
comtrails70 wrote:theres a guy on youtube that had a 3dpt next to the original switch.it looks like theres space inside for it too. im guessing theres more to it than just switching out the switches?i guess a true bypass loop makes more sense
There's not a whole lot more to it than switching out the switches. If you look up 3dpt wiring and find all the points on your board/jacks you should be fine.
Need to decide if the buffer part of the circuit will be left in or not as well. As for having space for a 3pdt, you can take out the button/switch that's in there now and it will fit.
Some things I did for a "friends" Fab (which I still have and seems will nvr get rid of)...removed c5 (scooped the mids a bit), discrete switching from led/diode or asy 3 diode clipping. The led lights up based on pick attack & "fab". Went through several to find a good one. If you remove the clipping altogether, it will have more range (od through distortion), instead of just DISTORTION. You can still get that overthetop sound with the "fab" cranked.
yes the buffer part is what im trying to eliminate.it seems to really take away from the signal.i guess ill have to poke around. Im defintely going to see what it sounds like without the c5 cap.does that mean you just replaced it with a jumper? Thanks guys