swapping a latch footswitch for a momentary

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

hey, soldering / electronics n00b here.

is swapping out a footswitch for a same style momentary ones (the 3pdt or whatever its called) basically just following the layout of the current switch and duplicating it w/ the new one?

is there anything i should know so i don't just brick my pedal.

want to switch the latch on MASF Possessed to a momentary switch.

thanks g's

[Ben79]

Are you sure you want to swap the switch? You could just build a simple looper with a momentary into a tuna can or any old little tin, then you have a momentary footswitch you can use on ANY pedal.

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

ah thats something I didn't think about. i guess i'd like to keep my footprint as small as possible
but, u know of any schems or info i could look at regarding this?


another option would be to add a switch to the dry/wet pot somehow (not exactly sure how this would be)
that went from 0 on the pot, to 100 when the switch is pressed, and back to 0 when it was released or not pressed.

[cloudscapes]

Though you can direct swap a latching with a momentary as the same type/pins, understand that merely doing this will make it so that your effect is only active as long as you hold your foot down on it.

[Ben79]

…just use a momentary DPDT. Would be a useful thing if you're into momentary control and could be built into a very small box.

[CyaNitrate]

…just use a momentary DPDT. Would be a useful thing if you're into momentary control and could be built into a very small box.

Even better would be a loop with a momentary and a latching, so you could do both. Be sure to use a ddm with the momentary switch though, so you don't accidentally wire it to always on with the switch breaking the signal.

[Bellyheart]

I've been meaning to build a stutter/kill and found this:
https://0xdfx.files.wordpress.com/2012/ ... .jpg?w=682

Combined with the tb loopers' jack wiring you'd be all set. Extra box but the possibilities are endless.

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

hey thanks for the infos everyone! so a box like this wouldn't need any power? is there loss of volume because its passive? or is that just passive mixers?

[cloudscapes]

no audible loss of volume. just some extra capacitance, again probably not audible. kind of like the difference in doubling the length of a cable between pedals.

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

awesome, thanks!

spend some time reading up on basics shit. kinda starting to get a lil less hazy

slightly different, am i thinking right in this diagram i made?

this would be to wire a momentary button before a dry/wet pot
so that normally (not pressed) it would go into the pot as usual.
but when pressed it would bypass the pot and send the full wet to the output

is the resistor here necessary?
i was thinking that i would need to match the resistance of the pot being fully clockwise/wet, but maybe fully clockwise is no resistance?
do i need the double pole switch or could i get away w/ a single one?

Screen Shot 2015-03-01 at 10.35.24 AM.png (105.99 KiB) Viewed 3586 times

i know this is real basic shit here, so i really appreciate all the help!

[CyaNitrate]

The circuit is totally passive. The only thing you would need power for is if you added an LED indicator. I made a stutter/kill with leds, so I added a power jack. And my guess is the resistor is to help reduce popping when you stomp the switch.

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

The circuit is totally passive. The only thing you would need power for is if you added an LED indicator. I made a stutter/kill with leds, so I added a power jack. And my guess is the resistor is to help reduce popping when you stomp the switch.

i made those diagrams myself and added the resistor because i wasn't sure if it was needed or not but figured it'd be easier to discuss if it was there.
i picked up a multimeter last night, so i think that will help me figure out whats going on.

my thinking behind adding the resistor. is that when the switch is pressed and hte pot is bypassed in the circuit. i want to send the same amount of resistance that the pot would have if it were in the fully wet (full cw) position. basically mimicking if the knob were turned all the way up.

**what i'm confused on is the resistance in the pot itself,
if the pot is turned full cw is there no resistance? or is there full resistance? (or maybe somehwere inbetween, but that doesn' tmake sense to me)

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

…just use a momentary DPDT. Would be a useful thing if you're into momentary control and could be built into a very small box.

how would i wire this to make it so that the input always get sent to the send? no matter what position the switch is in.
so that the signal always goes thru the pedal in the fx loop, but is not always output. ala ehx "chillswitch"

do i just wire that bottom left lug on the DPDT to the input tip?
(instead of the input sleeve as shown in the picture)
is having two wires hooked up to the input tip a no-no?
should i hook up a jumper instead connecting the bottom 2 lugs?

[Bellyheart]

I'm also a newb but look inside a chkchkboom. I believe the send is connected to in and return is connected to out directly.

Probably wrong.

[Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D.]

wish i had a chkchkboom to look at.

well i ordered some jacks, a switch and a little box. so i guess i'll find out soon enough!