Determining Types of Capacitors from a Vero Layout

[pulsewidthmod]

Hey guys, I'm working on buying some bulk components and I've already got my resistors, diodes and IC's; but I'm getting stuck on caps. I'm building the Distortion 2 which is posted here: http://www.ilovefuzz.com/viewtopic.php?f=151&t=23352

my question is, are all the green caps poly film? I know that the round caps are electrolytic. Yes I am a noob and I appreciate your patience with me. I've tried finding a veroboard legend on the internet with no luck

[pulsewidthmod]

Oh shoot .. i didn't even think to go to Mike's site .. i just found this picture which really helps me

[soldersqueeze]

You'd be amazed just how little it matters

I generally stay away from ceramics, and use Panasonic film caps where possible/ financially viable, but I've seen some really "major" pedals using some really average parts

[pulsewidthmod]

You'd be amazed just how little it matters

I generally stay away from ceramics, and use Panasonic film caps where possible/ financially viable, but I've seen some really "major" pedals using some really average parts

so then it doesn't matter which kind I use? (i don't have much fundage)

thank you soo much maeghan/pulsewidthmod

[crazynoises]

Some people believe in capacitor mojo, others don't. I think it's fair to say that even fairly picky mojo-types would agree that a good pedal will still good no matter what you capacitors you use. They just want that extra bit of magic that (supposedly) sets it apart if you use the fancy stuff.

A pretty good rule of thumb that I think most people use and is reflected in vero layouts:
Anything in pF-- ceramic disc
Anything in nf-- Polyester film "greenies"
1uF or over-- Electrolytics (although these will be specifically noted in vero layouts due to polarity).

A cheap bulk pack like those at Futurlec or one eBay should get you most of the values you need. When it comes to bulk packs, I tend to shoot for more values and less capacitors per value, because I want to have one of everything on hand and don't mind if some of the odd values never get used. But if you want to go for ultimate savings, go for packs that have a fewer (but more-often-used) range of values and more capacitors per value. Tayda is so cheap and easy on eBay or online now, and they deliver to me in less than a week so there's less value in having a huge stockpile of stuff at home.

If you have a little more money to spend, I would add a smattering of box capacitors in the upper nF values-- say 470nf and above. And a few axial electrolytics. Not because I think the tone is better, but sometimes those work out better in layouts.

[pulsewidthmod]

thank you thank you

i've already gotten all the components but am going to look into tayda.

i really appreciate the info

I want to have a pretty good inventory of common components. I plan on eventually building a modular and also designing my own circuits. (for now i'm gonna be working on the music.)

[jigsaw_devices]

due to space constraints, I want to use tantalum instead of green caps, but the tantalum are polarized, and the polarity is not indicated on the schematic. is there a way I can work out which way around I put my polarised capacitors? Or am I best to just give up on trying to squeeze it into a tiny enclosure, and go with the greenies?

[McSpunckle]

You'd be amazed just how little it matters

I generally stay away from ceramics, and use Panasonic film caps where possible/ financially viable, but I've seen some really "major" pedals using some really average parts

"Boutique components" generally means "the cheapest shit I could buy without learning Chinese."

I use 50 volt Panasonic ECQ-V caps, and occasionally multilayer ceramic for 1uF because they're nice and compact. They're cheap-ish, compact, and work well.

I've never heard a difference, but people insist there is one. I don't disbelieve them, but I don't really believe it's enough of a difference to bother with.

due to space constraints, I want to use tantalum instead of green caps, but the tantalum are polarized, and the polarity is not indicated on the schematic. is there a way I can work out which way around I put my polarised capacitors? Or am I best to just give up on trying to squeeze it into a tiny enclosure, and go with the greenies?

Use small multilayer ceramic caps. They're as small, but not polarized. You seem them used a lot in pedals these days.

Otherwise, for polarity, the positive side needs to be more positive than the negative side (duh). You can measure for it, but the best option is to just not use polarized caps if you don't need to. Especially tantalum. If you need help sourcing those, just let me know the values and such that you need. : )

[jigsaw_devices]

Use small multilayer ceramic caps. They're as small, but not polarized. You seem them used a lot in pedals these days.

Otherwise, for polarity, the positive side needs to be more positive than the negative side (duh). You can measure for it, but the best option is to just not use polarized caps if you don't need to. Especially tantalum. If you need help sourcing those, just let me know the values and such that you need. : )

mcspunkle, you are a GENIUS. That's exactly what I was seeing others use in their pedals. Please excuse my inability to recognise that there is a difference between tantalum and multilayer ceramic caps.

[McSpunckle]

There's nothing to excuse, good sir. : D

[pulsewidthmod]

I've finally built this pedal. Ha, only a year later ...

It works but it is noisy, this I need to fix.

Yay, for troubleshooting. I'm currently re-housing my shoe gazer pedal into a 1590BB it was in the larger D enclosure. Completely unnecessary. I'll post some pictures when I'm done. Hopefully I'll figure out the Distortion 2's noise issue.