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I have a borked v1 Small stone. A bunch of the wires weren't connected and the switch was damaged when I got it. I tried just replacing the switch (with a 2PDT or 3PDT) and managed to get bypass signal but best I could get with the pedal on was volume drop (yay, it's working!) and a motorboat/pulse/oscillation overlaid on the clean signal that tracks in speed with turning the pot. Thought I had it sussed at first, but all I got was a kinda WHUMPAWHUMPAWHUMPA motorboating noise, so obviously I bolloxed it up.

As the wires were all crusty and it wasn't working anyway I decided to start fresh. So I've removed all the wiring, and cleaned up the board in isopropyl alcohol (it was really cruddy).
I already replaced the 10uF electrolytic just in case (didn't make a difference). Haven't touched the big 500uF although I did put a 450uF (all I had) in parallel with it and all that happened was the motorboat changed slightly in intensity and speed.

So, can anyone help me mark out the board for in/out/effect in/effect out so I can rewire a 3PDT switch for TB and see if I can get it working or figure out what's wrong?
I'm leaning toward leaving the colour switch out for the time being until I can at least get it phasing.




I’d like to put in a standard barrel connector for power too, but first I want to see if I can get it working. What would cause it to pulse but not phase? The solder side was kinda cruddy. I reflowed a bunch of solder points.

I can start giving you a hand tomorrow. I'm tied up the rest of today, however.

Also, I think I have some axial 10uf caps so you can restore it with the same style parts. Send me your address and I'll get them out to you.

Thanks that'd be great.
I'm kinda trying to cludge together a wiring scheme from these two:
GGG -- although it's a different version
Generic TB stompbox wiring
I tried these switch schemes: http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af2 ... SWITCH.png
but it's not making sense to me ....

What's going on with that radial electrolytic at the bottom of the board? I only see one lead soldered. The opposite side through-hole doesn't appear to have anything soldered to it.

Looks like you have a pretty old model. Maybe 1975 or 76?

Got these at FreeStompBoxes:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9212

culturejam wrote:What's going on with that radial electrolytic at the bottom of the board? I only see one lead soldered. The opposite side through-hole doesn't appear to have anything soldered to it.

Looks like you have a pretty old model. Maybe 1975 or 76?

Got these at FreeStompBoxes:

There's another hold in the board that the -ve lead runs through to the other side (the original cap was installed that way too).
I saw those pics on FSB .. doesn't help me wire up the switch though.
(It's dated 1976).
Cheers

If you want to do true bypass with a 3PDT, all you really need is to know where the PCB input and output wires are. The rest is just generic stuff. Here's a diagram I made:

culturejam wrote:If you want to do true bypass with a 3PDT, all you really need is to know where the PCB input and output wires are. The rest is just generic stuff. Here's a diagram I made:

Thayt's a good diagram. I don't know where the PCB input and output are though
Any idea?
I don't know how to translate between this with a single pole switch to a 3PDT


Ron Nealey posted this, but I can't figure out where the wire marked in blue goes. It looks like it goes to the bottom left lug of the Color switch with the resitor. I put it there but no go.

Taking out the color switch, does this look right?

Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

culturejam wrote:Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

Cool, I'll try it. Thanks
I have a box of 3PDTs sitting here so I'll use one of those rather than wait a month to get a DPDT off Smallbear
(Looks like I'll need a smaller switch anyway -- don't think I can get the base on with a blue switch in there.
Will report back if it works...
Thanks for your help. I should know this stuff ...

My pleasure.

devnulljp wrote:

culturejam wrote:Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

Cool, I'll try it. Thanks
I have a box of 3PDTs sitting here so I'll use one of those rather than wait a month to get a DPDT off Smallbear
(Looks like I'll need a smaller switch anyway -- don't think I can get the base on with a blue switch in there.
Will report back if it works...
Thanks for your help. I should know this stuff ...

Mouser has 'em. They're slightly more expensive than Smallbear, you don't have to wait. :D

Wired it up.
Pinin' for the fjords...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vuW6tQ0218[/youtube]

I think it's borked beyond just the wiring.
I get the volume drop when engaged, just no phasing.
At least the motorboating has stopped ...