Help fixing an old Small Stone?

[devnulljp]

I have a borked v1 Small stone. A bunch of the wires weren't connected and the switch was damaged when I got it. I tried just replacing the switch (with a 2PDT or 3PDT) and managed to get bypass signal but best I could get with the pedal on was volume drop (yay, it's working!) and a motorboat/pulse/oscillation overlaid on the clean signal that tracks in speed with turning the pot. Thought I had it sussed at first, but all I got was a kinda WHUMPAWHUMPAWHUMPA motorboating noise, so obviously I bolloxed it up.

As the wires were all crusty and it wasn't working anyway I decided to start fresh. So I've removed all the wiring, and cleaned up the board in isopropyl alcohol (it was really cruddy).
I already replaced the 10uF electrolytic just in case (didn't make a difference). Haven't touched the big 500uF although I did put a 450uF (all I had) in parallel with it and all that happened was the motorboat changed slightly in intensity and speed.

So, can anyone help me mark out the board for in/out/effect in/effect out so I can rewire a 3PDT switch for TB and see if I can get it working or figure out what's wrong?
I'm leaning toward leaving the colour switch out for the time being until I can at least get it phasing.




I’d like to put in a standard barrel connector for power too, but first I want to see if I can get it working. What would cause it to pulse but not phase? The solder side was kinda cruddy. I reflowed a bunch of solder points.

[culturejam]

I can start giving you a hand tomorrow. I'm tied up the rest of today, however.

Also, I think I have some axial 10uf caps so you can restore it with the same style parts. Send me your address and I'll get them out to you.

[devnulljp]

Thanks that'd be great.
I'm kinda trying to cludge together a wiring scheme from these two:
GGG -- although it's a different version
Generic TB stompbox wiring
I tried these switch schemes: http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af2 ... SWITCH.png
but it's not making sense to me ....

[culturejam]

What's going on with that radial electrolytic at the bottom of the board? I only see one lead soldered. The opposite side through-hole doesn't appear to have anything soldered to it.

Looks like you have a pretty old model. Maybe 1975 or 76?

Got these at FreeStompBoxes:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9212

[devnulljp]

What's going on with that radial electrolytic at the bottom of the board? I only see one lead soldered. The opposite side through-hole doesn't appear to have anything soldered to it.

Looks like you have a pretty old model. Maybe 1975 or 76?

Got these at FreeStompBoxes:

There's another hold in the board that the -ve lead runs through to the other side (the original cap was installed that way too).
I saw those pics on FSB .. doesn't help me wire up the switch though.
(It's dated 1976).
Cheers

[culturejam]

If you want to do true bypass with a 3PDT, all you really need is to know where the PCB input and output wires are. The rest is just generic stuff. Here's a diagram I made:

[devnulljp]

If you want to do true bypass with a 3PDT, all you really need is to know where the PCB input and output wires are. The rest is just generic stuff. Here's a diagram I made:

Thayt's a good diagram. I don't know where the PCB input and output are though
Any idea?
I don't know how to translate between this with a single pole switch to a 3PDT


Ron Nealey posted this, but I can't figure out where the wire marked in blue goes. It looks like it goes to the bottom left lug of the Color switch with the resitor. I put it there but no go.

[devnulljp]

Taking out the color switch, does this look right?

[culturejam]

Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

[devnulljp]

Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

Cool, I'll try it. Thanks
I have a box of 3PDTs sitting here so I'll use one of those rather than wait a month to get a DPDT off Smallbear
(Looks like I'll need a smaller switch anyway -- don't think I can get the base on with a blue switch in there.
Will report back if it works...
Thanks for your help. I should know this stuff ...

[culturejam]

My pleasure.

[McSpunckle]

Yeah, that looks right.

BTW, if you're not adding the LED, you can just use a DPDT switch and still have true bypass.

Cool, I'll try it. Thanks
I have a box of 3PDTs sitting here so I'll use one of those rather than wait a month to get a DPDT off Smallbear
(Looks like I'll need a smaller switch anyway -- don't think I can get the base on with a blue switch in there.
Will report back if it works...
Thanks for your help. I should know this stuff ...

Mouser has 'em. They're slightly more expensive than Smallbear, you don't have to wait. :D

[devnulljp]

Wired it up.
Pinin' for the fjords...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vuW6tQ0218[/youtube]

I think it's borked beyond just the wiring.
I get the volume drop when engaged, just no phasing.
At least the motorboating has stopped ...