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I've had to play with resistor values to dim shit! LOL! I've had 2.2k work and fuck, I can't even remember now......err. I have to look at my desk. LOL. I'm no builder though. I just rehouse shit and mess around. I do have a bunch of burning out LED experience though! LOL!!

I really could give a shit less about what a bezel looks like either. The plastic ones are cool I guess, but to me, it just doesn't matter. Some people love that shit. Like for instance, I replaced the bulb in my RM1N with a standard LED when I had it. I just didn't like that big ass bulb and the jewel was ok, so I kept it but that was mostly because I made a drilling mistake and had to. LOL. I just don't care about the LED covers and shit. I like Bezels because, like I said, if you step on the shit, it won't recess the LED. I've had that happen before with pedals and nothing pisses me off more than having to take all the guts out of a pedal to hot glue a fucking LED down. Don't tell anyone but I've used Gorilla Glue too. Hahaha.

You're gonna love my nut.

Here's the ARC Klone I had Aaron build for me, fresnel lens and a knurled nut:

I do think LED's can be too bright
Bright enough for me to know it's on is good
Bright enough to blind me is bad
Depends on the finish too - keeley comp is flipping blinding
and I do like to play with settings alot so if it's too bright for me to see knobs it's a problem

Don't have a real pref on how LED's are mounted or on color

jwar wrote: I just don't care about the LED covers and shit. I like Bezels because, like I said, if you step on the shit, it won't recess the LED. I've had that happen before with pedals and nothing pisses me off more than having to take all the guts out of a pedal to hot glue a fucking LED down. Don't tell anyone but I've used Gorilla Glue too. Hahaha.

I find LEDs do get pushed in when using bezels. Most LEDs stick out a bit taller (not on all bezels, but on a lot of them. And a lot of the taller bezels are fake chrome plastic shit). If you use "covers and shit" it is impossible to push a LED in.

Then again, I feel like that has to do with placement. If placed in a good location one shouldn't have to worry about stepping on it.

There is also the flat, flush LED option, which looks clean and are also impossible to be stepped on.

Thanks to this thread I'll be experimenting with an alternate option of flush/recessed LED mounting that will involve M6 threaded inserts and two different kinds of epoxy, please allow 2-3 months for finalized results.

Snufkino wrote:what resistor values do you tend to go for to lessen any harsh brightness?

I'm usually using diffused LED to begin with, so the 1-2K usually does the trick to get it in the comfortably dim range. I do have some clear bi-color that are in the current batch, but that's setting the LED at a virtual ground at some mid point between the rails so I can exploit both colors with a single latch, I'll let you know what I settle on. Optimal values are going to vary though, as power supplies are ALL over the place, I've got cheap linears that easily run 50% over spec when unloaded.

dminner wrote:

jwar wrote: I just don't care about the LED covers and shit. I like Bezels because, like I said, if you step on the shit, it won't recess the LED. I've had that happen before with pedals and nothing pisses me off more than having to take all the guts out of a pedal to hot glue a fucking LED down. Don't tell anyone but I've used Gorilla Glue too. Hahaha.

I find LEDs do get pushed in when using bezels. Most LEDs stick out a bit taller (not on all bezels, but on a lot of them. And a lot of the taller bezels are fake chrome plastic shit). If you use "covers and shit" it is impossible to push a LED in.

Then again, I feel like that has to do with placement. If placed in a good location one shouldn't have to worry about stepping on it.

There is also the flat, flush LED option, which looks clean and are also impossible to be stepped on.

That's why you buy metal non fake ones. Never ever had an issue. I don't use shit bezels though. I've only used plastic when placement was far away from the stomp. I've had LEDs literally go down into the box because builders put them so close.

If your LEDs are part of the circuit such that, when you play, they illuminate; they must be exposed.

Woah I didn't expect this thread to make a quilt

TL;DR





No give me time to reply. There's a lot of good stuff here. Off the bat, the general consensus seems: no blue, yes fresnels/bezels(if metal!), put them some where cool?

Correct. Plus my awesome idea that no one else understood exactly how awesome it was, of either a trimmer for the LED or a 3-way switch with different values.

goroth wrote:Correct. Plus my awesome idea that no one else understood exactly how awesome it was, of either a trimmer for the LED or a 3-way switch with different values.

Or a pedal that comes with three different pair of sunglasses. Each with varying darkness of lenses.

oldangelmidnight wrote:If your LEDs are part of the circuit such that, when you play, they illuminate; they must be exposed.

THIS

Working with a true nine volt power supply I was just able to comfortably gaze into the depths of a blue LED loaded with 54K (1K safety at anode, full wipe 50 K pot at cathode) of resistance.

So, my sense of the subject is: don't be shy about bringing the hammer down on the blue ones.

goroth wrote:Correct. Plus my awesome idea that no one else understood exactly how awesome it was, of either a trimmer for the LED or a 3-way switch with different values.

The only issue I see from a design aspect is control clutter. Allocating an entire switch for LED brightness when most self respecting circuits have already decided on throwing out function ranges OF SOUND in the face of panel sanity is craziness. I can, however, see a small hole drilled to allow a jewelers screwdriver to range the LED. Would the feature be worth an added expense?

Chankgeez wrote:

goroth wrote:Correct. Plus my awesome idea that no one else understood exactly how awesome it was, of either a trimmer for the LED or a 3-way switch with different values.

Or a pedal that comes with three different pair of sunglasses. Each with varying darkness of lenses.

Don't you temp me

crochambeau wrote:The only issue I see from a design aspect is control clutter. Allocating an entire switch for LED brightness when most self respecting circuits have already decided on throwing out function ranges OF SOUND in the face of panel sanity is craziness. I can, however, see a small hole drilled to allow a jewelers screwdriver to range the LED. Would the feature be worth an added expense?

Yea, a trimmer is the only way I'd go here. Certainly willing to do it if people are really interested.

I'm going to throw Rawkworks out there. Great pedals with cool use of LEDs and includes brightness controls on the inside.

That black & blue is the shit.