Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

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jfrey
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

Having trouble figuring out how to wire the stomp switch. Looking at this:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

Not sure i get it.

Also the power jack I have only has 2 prongs, not 3. 1 long 1 short.
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

circuit.png
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by tuffteef »

Image

follow grounds from the beavis guide
hopefully i did it right or i will look like a goose
the green lines go to the tips of the jacks btw just incase its wrong
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

Are these connections replacing or going on top of the connections shown in the original diagram?
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by culturejam »

I'm gonna guess replacing. You can't really have two wiring setups on one set of hardware.

Here's an alternative stompswitch wiring diagram:

Image
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

Is one wiring setup for the 3pdt better than the other?
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by culturejam »

jfrey wrote:Is one wiring setup for the 3pdt better than the other?

Not especially. I've just done it "my" way for so long that it's comfortable.
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

Ok. So I'll be done with this tonight after work. Let's hope it works...

I made some alterations to the circuit which in retrospect I probably should have just left alone since it's my first project...

So far it's just about the messiest job in existence.
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by tuffteef »

jfrey wrote:Are these connections replacing or going on top of the connections shown in the original diagram?



replacing
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by Gone Fission »

Teej212 wrote:also, remove the 2.2m resistor and put in a diode in its place and you have a bazz fuss


Hmm. How would that work out as a performance-switchable feature, like on an extra stomp switch?
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by jfrey »

Gone Fission wrote:
Teej212 wrote:also, remove the 2.2m resistor and put in a diode in its place and you have a bazz fuss


Hmm. How would that work out as a performance-switchable feature, like on an extra stomp switch?

That's what I did, with a toggle though.

Can't tell you how it works though, since it isn't...
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by Here Lies The Fire »

Ok as far as caps...

I have some Tantalum .1uF* Mylar/Flim .1uF*[some .10uF too], and Multilayer Ceramic .10uF*...
(actually listed in MFD but whatever)

can anyone tell me the differences as far as sound? ALSO what is with 50v Vs. 100v and so forth. ex. MLR104K50 / MLR104k100
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by BlindtoFaith »

I want to try this bad!
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by Jero »

Here Lies The Fire wrote:Ok as far as caps...
I have some Tantalum .1uF* Mylar/Flim .1uF*[some .10uF too], and Multilayer Ceramic .10uF*...
(actually listed in MFD but whatever)
can anyone tell me the differences as far as sound? ALSO what is with 50v Vs. 100v and so forth. ex. MLR104K50 / MLR104k100


So you have tantalums and ceramic caps in values of .1uf. A lot of the time tantalum caps will be polarized (+/- like electrolytics). The 50v/100v is their voltage rating. Just showing you not to exceed those voltages or the component will likely fail. In stomp boxes, you rarely exceed 9v, though certain effects can use 18 or 24v. In those effects, you'd want to be sure all of your components are rated high enough.
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Re: Detailed How to Build a Silvercrank

Post by kbit »

That diagram on how to wire the pots/jacks/switch is so helpful. I'm definitely going to be ordering parts to do this soon.

Also since this would be my first build, I have a question:
Should both pots be logarithmic, or would using a linear pot for the intensity knob be better?
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