ilovefuzz.com

Pretty sure that's a Cornell.
Show him it's not working and offer him 50 quid.
Take it home and put a battery in -- if it sounds good, great, if not send it to Stu Castledine or Ian Sherwen to put some decent guts in it.
Or grab one of pigeonfx's kits and hunt up some good trannies and do it yourself.

devnulljp wrote:hunt up some good trannies and do it yourself.

Awrite!

haha, there was no battery to begin with, but ibrought my own. The picture is from after i took it back out. thanks though for the help, ill go in tomorrow and see what i can do about it

If the board isn't broken, I wouldn't even bother to replace it unless the traces are just fucked. You might want to do some tuning, but hell, even the worst FF's that Dunlop ever put out can be made great with component subs. It's all the same basic circuit, just a few changes over time.

(For troubleshooting, I would first check continuity on the jacks and the battery connection -- probably the most likely fail points.)

Okay, thanks ive been unable to get into town the past couple of days to see if they still have it and will sell it for cheap.... But as soon as i either get it, or it disappears forever, ill tell you lot

yeah, if you want it repaired I would be happy to take a look! I get the impression you are in the UK like myself.

thanks, im in glasgow, i just got it today £40, better than i expected. i took some pictures of its guts for you, ill post them just now

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Nothing I'm spotting by way of an obvious broken connection. You might keep an eye out for the potential of components and connections to short out against the case. I had a pedal go intermittent because the prior owner had removed the original insulation between pcb and base-plate.

Gone Fission wrote:Nothing I'm spotting by way of an obvious broken connection. You might keep an eye out for the potential of components and connections to short out against the case. I had a pedal go intermittent because the prior owner had removed the original insulation between pcb and base-plate.

Okay, thanks i supposing the cornell fuzz face is buffered bypass, yeah? Does that have any bearing on whether the signal would run okay when the pedal is off? When its plugged in and batteried up, theres no sound if its on, but it isnt blocking the signal... might that mean its just the switch? sorry if thats a silly assumption, im new to this, and the switch seems like a cheap and easy fix.

Just to make it sure: the input and output of a fuzz face are not the same as any other pedal. Input is left, Output on the right hand side. Did you wire it up like this?
Those are normally true bypass. I had a Cornell once and it was also true bypass.
If there is no battery inside, the true bypass should (obviously) still work. The fuzz circuit may work with a huge volume loss. Perhaps you can check if this i the fact with yours.

Try to find some original NKT transistors. Old stock, not newer ones.

Yeah, the pedal was connected up properly, it wasnt tested at higher volumes, but there wasnt the slightest noise from the guitar, not even the slightest hiss when it was off.

And ill try, im mainly trying to get it just to run right now :P