Tube question / guitar tone (the amp is part of the problem)

[bigchiefbc]

My JTM30 has JJs in it, and they've lasted quite a while, 6 years or so, I think.

My Bugera has Mesa Boogie EL34s in them, but Mesa doesn't make tubes AFAIK, so they're probably a re-brand, I just don't know of what. But I haven't had any issues with them yet, and it's been a little over 2 years.

[Hyphen Nation]

I think of rectifiers going the fastest, then power tubes, then the triodes, if they go at all. Those are the one place I don't mind spending on NOS because they rarely seem to burn out.

[sylnau]

May I change the rectifier myself or it needs to be bias like the powertube?

[Jeff-7]

Recto tubes can affect the plate voltages but if it's the same type as the one being replaced it's usually negligible so I don't bother (unless the amp was biased while the recto tube was failing, then you should).

[Hyphen Nation]

ok, maybe someone who builds amps can weigh in on this, but what Jeff-7 said is my understanding as well. If you are replacing a rectifier with an identical one [same values] you should be ok. If the amp was biased against a bad rectifier, it can swing your plate voltages on your power tubes.

[AxAxSxS]

I think solid state is the best replacement for the rectifier tube. It's more efficient and wont burn out on you.
Not a solution for you but I had found this excellent post on another forum that goes into who makes what, what is just repainted same thing, and (I know this is subjective) what is best.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthre ... tron-tubes

Was a good read.

[Tristan]

Syl, can't you go to an amp tech and try out different preamp tubes there?
In my experience it's usually cool with those guys to do that sorta thing, you can try out the different brands they have and get the right mix for your amp.
I don't have great experiences with TAD tubes soundwise but it could also just be that they don't sound that great in my amp.
As for the 5Y3 rectifier tube you have to take a look what is specified, supplied voltage and everything because sometimes an amp needs a lower voltage and then you'd have to get a NOS one as the newer JJ's supply too much voltage, I don't know everything about it, I think it's best to ask your tech and look what's inside your amp now.

[sylnau]

The place that can repair my amp here in Quebec only have those tubes (so no choice).
-Power = TAD
-Rectifier = Sovtek
-Pre = JJ

I don't really wants the Sovtek 5Y3 in the rectifier.
But since I can't repair it myself, I wont have the choice.

I'll try to call some other place... just in case.

[rustywire]

You have the internet, so you can buy tubes from an online store, and then have your tech install it.

[sylnau]

The other place have those:

5Y3 Sovtek
5Y3 JJ
6V6 (mp) Electro-Harmonix
6V6 (mp) JJ
ECC83S (12AX7) JJ
12AX7WA Sovtek

I guess I'll go with them and goes with JJ everywhere (if they all need to be replaced).

What you guys think?

[Tristan]

JJ's are quite good I think, people say they give the amp a bit of a darker tone compared to other tubes but I don't know really, I only know that I like them.

[sylnau]

Just noticed my rectifier is a 5AR4/GZ34 (even if it said 5Y3 on the amp).
What is the difference, should I go with a 5Y3 or 5AR4? I want some sag.

I don't know anything about tubes.

[symbolique]

Just noticed my rectifier is a 5AR4/GZ34 (even if it said 5Y3 on the amp).
What is the difference, should I go with a 5Y3 or 5AR4? I want some sag.

I don't know anything about tubes.

Hey Syl, You want the 5AR4/GZ34 for the duende 112, the 5Y3 should be an empty checkbox and the 5AR should be a blacked out checkbox like my duende 112.

The 5y3 is for the 1x10 (12W), 5AR is for 15W.

edit: the chassis of the Duende is marked with checkboxe for the different combo versions, just go with the blacked out boxes as the tubes you need

The power amps have two options, V7 6V6 and V7 6L6 but on a 112 both 6V6's should be blacked out checkboxed.

[sylnau]

Thanks symbolique.

What would you guys think about this?

V1: Input tube both channels a and b, 12ax7, JJ ECC83S if need to be replaced, else keep the TAD 12AX7A-C
V2: 2nd stage for Channel b and Reverb Return, 12ax7, JJ ECC83S if need to be replaced, else keep the TAD 12AX7A-C
V3: 3rd stage for Channel a and b, 12ax7, JJ ECC83S if need to be replaced, else keep the Sovtek-LPS
V4: FX Loop, Send and Return, 12ax7, JJ ECC83S if need to be replaced, else keep the Sovtek-LPS
V5: Phase Inverter, 12ax7, JJ ECC83S if need to be replaced, else keep the Sovtek-LPS
V6: Power Tube, 6V6 (6L6 30W), JJ 6V6
V7: Power Tube, 6V6 (6L6 30W), JJ 6V6
V8: Rectifier 5AR4 (15W), Sino (China) 5AR4 or maybe the Sovtek 5AR4 (that's mostly where I need some recommendations).

Thanks for the input.

[univalve]

My last Post in this thread:
Get a 5r4wgb and try it. After that change The power tubes, Grey Glass 6v6. Don't change too much at The same time. Stay away from JJs.
You can change The tubes yourself. Shouldn't be a Problem for you.