More noob questions

[Mike]

radioshack solder is garbage

What was your negative experience with Radio Shack solder?

I hate the place, but I've been using their solder for years, always with good results.

Mike

[McSpunckle]

What's the best kind of solder you've used? I have been using some random tubes I had left over from a while ago.

Any good quality leaded solder will be fine. AIM, Kester, MG Chemicals. Either of the two common alloys will be fine. Go with no clean flux.
You don't need anything stronger. The stuff hasn't changed in decades, so you're pretty safe.

[modernage]

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9672

$40, basically the same deal as the Hakko, but maybe not built as well (haven't used either, to be perfectly honest). Check the reviews under it. These Hakko clones are generally considered pretty awesome. The slimmer pencils help a lot. It's sold at different places, too. I think Circuit Specialists sells one. And it's supposed to take Hakko tips, so finding tips won't suck.

The WP35 should be good too. I like having temperature control so I don't burn stuff up when I don't need the heat. Good technique will make up for that, though.

Looks almost identical to my Hakko and the reviews seem pretty good.
If the Hakko tips fit I'd say it's a winner!

Dang I was going to link my Hakko 936, but this one (as far as I can tell) is identical for half the price. I might have to buy myself a backup. I do love my Hakko. It's such a solid piece of kit, and the iron is nice and comfortable in your hand. Important for long soldering binges. There's nothing cheap about it. I also like that you can remove the iron and cable from the station if something goes to hell, and they need to be replaced.

The one good thing about going with a Weller is that you can find the tips anywhere. If you are planning on making this a long term addiction the Hakko would be a good investment though.

[modernage]

Double post!

Speaking of solder... has anyone tried the stuff Mammoth Elec. has been dealing? It's a bit cheaper than the Kester solder I last bought, which they say it's the same as.

It's probably great stuff. It's just good to hear a positive experience before jumping into the unknown.

[MEC]

What's the best kind of solder you've used? I have been using some random tubes I had left over from a while ago.

Cut+Paste=
"Solder that is made of 63% tin and 37% lead. 63/37 solder is also known as eutectic solder and is often preferred because it goes directly from a solid to liquid state when melted."

It works really well and because it doesn't have an in between state makes it easier to get solid joints.
I use .7mm - .8mm for PCB's and 1mm for everything else.

[Mike]

This is the stuff I've been using: Link.

62%-tin, 36%-lead, 2%-silver

Works great. Flows great. And I can run right down the road to get it. I just have to put up with the harassment from the employees (Tip: Ask them for a product that you know they don't stock-- like an AC128-- , and send them on a wild goose chase, freeing you up to sort through parts bins.)



Mike

[modernage]

(Tip: Ask them for a product that you know they don't stock-- like an AC128-- , and send them on a wild goose chase, freeing you up to sort through parts bins.)

Mike, you're a cruel, cruel man.


....... I like it!

[MEC]

This is the stuff I've been using: Link.

62%-tin, 36%-lead, 2%-silver

Works great. Flows great. And I can run right down the road to get it. I just have to put up with the harassment from the employees (Tip: Ask them for a product that you know they don't stock-- like an AC128-- , and send them on a wild goose chase, freeing you up to sort through parts bins.)



Mike

Yeah, that looks like it would work fine. The main reason I don't use RadioShack solder is the cost.
For the price of 4oz of the stuff you linked to, you could get an 16oz of this:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1001

[jfrey]

Ok, another question. With a momentary footswitch, is it a question of how you wire it that determines whether it is momentary on or momentary off, or is it a different type of switch?

Let's say I want it to be off when up and on when depressed.

Using something like this:
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SFSS ... 0-1003.htm

[eatyourguitar]

get out your multimeter and test for continuity. if you dont have a multimeter, use a 9v battery and a 2k or 4k resistor connected to and LED. first test it with just the led, battery, and resistor (no switch). if the led doesn't light up, you have the led backwards. once you have that figured out, you can use it to see what legs of the switch make a connection when the switch is not pressed. when pressed, the switch will use the opposite outside leg. the center leg is used in both situations. you can test that too. if you have enough hands to push the switch and hold all your wires.

[jfrey]

get out your multimeter and test for continuity. if you dont have a multimeter, use a 9v battery and a 2k or 4k resistor connected to and LED. first test it with just the led, battery, and resistor (no switch). if the led doesn't light up, you have the led backwards. once you have that figured out, you can use it to see what legs of the switch make a connection when the switch is not pressed. when pressed, the switch will use the opposite outside leg. the center leg is used in both situations. you can test that too. if you have enough hands to push the switch and hold all your wires.

Ok, I have a multimeter so I'll use that. Just wasn't sure if the switch was set up to give you the option or if it was a one or the other type thing.

[eatyourguitar]

if it has 3 or 6 legs then it can do momentary on or momentary off. if it has 2 legs then its usually momentary on.

[jfrey]

if it has 3 or 6 legs then it can do momentary on or momentary off. if it has 2 legs then its usually momentary on.

Gotcha. Thank you.

[jfrey]

Still more questions... How do you combine 2 pedals?

I'm sure I can figure out the specific wiring myself once I get the idea, is this the general concept?

(Drew one of the arrows on the right backwards by accident)

image.JPG (17.12 KiB) Viewed 1783 times

[modernage]

Here's an example General Guitar Gadgets.

The easiest way to think about is this:

The wire from FX1 that would normally run from the 3pdt to the tip of output jack, and the wire from FX2 that would normally run from the tip of the input jack to the 3pdt will now be the same wire. It would be the same concept of having a patch cable between two pedals.

You will also have two wires running from the (+) of the DC jack to power each circuit.

I hope that doesn't sound too confusing.