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I wanted to pop in to update people on why I have been absent and why the pedal has not been finished. basically, I had finals for college. then I had make up classes because I was in the hospital last year near the end of a semester. the 30 day break from dec 15 to jan 13 was me working to pay rent, cramming 3 final projects, building furniture for my new work space, and packing all my tools into boxes. I have not forgotten my responsibilities. no one is forgotten. Things will get done as fast as possible. This project is at the top of my list but it is hard to justify taking a big L in school for this. I have no choice with moving my shop. things between me and my mom have reached a critical juncture.
PCB's are available but I am telling everyone that there are two hot fixes so that they don't get the idea that this is an easy project. you will need to email me or PM to purchase anything. I am almost out of money so I had to close the store and the website. still alive and kicking ass. I built a massive shop table. I got an A in my writing class. I will probably get an A in java programming as well.
I just read the 3 pages of this thread that happened while I was away. a few things I should mention. I did not get any emails or PM's asking for schematics or pictures while this was happening. I probably could have been more helpful if I knew that people needed pictures or information about the process. there is no chance the transistors were flipped, PNP, or MPSA18. I see now that it was the old reverse gain trick. I remember the death by audio pedal did this. I posted a thread where I asked about reverse gain. the pedal was %100 reverse gain. not like the devi pedals where they are piggy backed with one reversed. so you can think of this more like a DBA pedal not like a devi ever fuzz. also, all of the photos I have are in the public google drive. some of them are very high quality. the only thing not posted right now is the PCB schematics since I can no longer afford a website. anyone can email me to get anything that was on my website. no problem.
I want to build it now proper. I can see that I should flip the transistors. was the J201 also flipped? does anyone want pictures of the new PCB?
UglyCasanova wrote:As someone who got a board but is confused about all of the back and forth, what's the Tldr version of what I need to do when building this?
And where is this Google drive you speak of?
TLDR: flip the two transistors (Q6 and Q7 in EYGs Schematic) around, so not C-B-E but E-B-C.
UglyCasanova wrote:As someone who got a board but is confused about all of the back and forth, what's the Tldr version of what I need to do when building this?
UglyCasanova wrote:As someone who got a board but is confused about all of the back and forth, what's the Tldr version of what I need to do when building this?
And where is this Google drive you speak of?
Schlatte wrote:TLDR: flip the two transistors (Q6 and Q7 in EYGs Schematic) around, so not C-B-E but E-B-C.
eatyourguitar wrote:
PCB's are available but I am telling everyone that there are two hot fixes so that they don't get the idea that this is an easy project.
I'm still a bit confused as to whether the PCBs work as is (with the flipped transistors), or if there are modifications that have to be made to get them functional.
UglyCasanova wrote:As someone who got a board but is confused about all of the back and forth, what's the Tldr version of what I need to do when building this?
And where is this Google drive you speak of?
Schlatte wrote:TLDR: flip the two transistors (Q6 and Q7 in EYGs Schematic) around, so not C-B-E but E-B-C.
eatyourguitar wrote:
PCB's are available but I am telling everyone that there are two hot fixes so that they don't get the idea that this is an easy project.
I'm still a bit confused as to whether the PCBs work as is (with the flipped transistors), or if there are modifications that have to be made to get them functional.
my first hot fix was actually wrong. ignore my hot fix and use the transistor flip method instead. the only other change is that the surface mounted ceramic caps 1000nF (1uF) are equivalent to a poly box cap 100nF or 220nF. small surface mounted ceramic caps are never the right value in the way that they are used here. to get 1000nF from a 1000uF cap you would need small signals small current no DC bias. poly film caps do not have this problem of the values changing based on the conditions. what this means is that if you are building a clone with surface mounted ceramic caps you can use 1000nF but if you are building through hole with film caps it would be something else.
I designed a PCB to hold the jacks together. there is a hole in the PCB for a window to look at the power entry. This PCB makes it possible to clip the ends of the PCB mounted jacks. everything is very tight but it should be ok with this PCB and clipped leads. the line of symmetry is also marked for alignment as it relates to aesthetics of the build from the outside.
So did a vero according to JonWain's last schematic. Did anyone have issues biasing the jfet to half supply? Neither the SMD or through hole component would get up to half supply on mine. Output was clean and boosted T JFET so I carried on. Probed signals where they meet at mix. Low sounds alright. High sounds misbiased even with the transistors flipped. Audio probed before the flipped two stages and sounds pretty similar to the other side.
"to get 1000nF from a 1000uF cap you would need small signals small current no DC bias. poly film caps do not have this problem of the values changing based on the conditions. what this means is that if you are building a clone with surface mounted ceramic caps you can use 1000nF but if you are building through hole with film caps it would be something else."
EYG, could you point out a source for this info?
Jonwain could you post some rough sound samples or something? Input at 2/3, out at half, mix in middle, high and low at either extremes, then mix ccw, high and low at both and finally mix cw high and low at both extremes. This would at least provide some type of comparison for those who own one or have experience with one to comment if it is pretty close or not.
