Hey all!
I just got a package of 9 volt battery clips to replace broken ones on a few pedals. I have a Hakko 936 iron but it’s been ages since i’ve used it on a circuit board. can someone recommend a temperature setting that won’t melt the board? greatly appreciate the advice!
Soldiering question
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The DIY forum is for personal projects (things that are not for sale, not in production), info sharing, peer to peer assistance. No backdoor spamming (DIY posts that are actually advertisements for your business). No clones of in-production pedals. If you have concerns or questions, feel free to PM admin. Thanks so much!
- BetterOffShred
- IAMILFFAMOUS
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Re: Soldiering question
I run mine at 650°F .. with a fairly fine tip. I'm not saying I have the best technique but I can solder pretty quick at this temp. I think it depends on your solder as well, melting temps are a little different here and there.
Should be ok as long as you don't roast the shit out of it.

Should be ok as long as you don't roast the shit out of it.
- crochambeau
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Re: Soldiering question
I run mine at 650 too.
Before you apply solder, melt a little on the tip. Then place the tip so that it is in thermal contact with both pad and part (the molten solder on your tip from sentence 1 will act as an enveloping pillow to GREATLY assist in getting all surfaces up to temperature). Apply solder only grazing the tip at start, to break the "freeze" of the metal and begin flow. Feed the material into the parts to be soldered and not the iron. If you watch, you'll notice a point at which the solder, which has "built up" a little as you feed, will "slump" or relax into the joint. At this point (if you've covered your joint) your work is done and you can desist feeding solder and remove the iron in that order.
Before you apply solder, melt a little on the tip. Then place the tip so that it is in thermal contact with both pad and part (the molten solder on your tip from sentence 1 will act as an enveloping pillow to GREATLY assist in getting all surfaces up to temperature). Apply solder only grazing the tip at start, to break the "freeze" of the metal and begin flow. Feed the material into the parts to be soldered and not the iron. If you watch, you'll notice a point at which the solder, which has "built up" a little as you feed, will "slump" or relax into the joint. At this point (if you've covered your joint) your work is done and you can desist feeding solder and remove the iron in that order.
- Confuzzled
- experienced
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Re: Soldiering question
Thank you both for the tips!