Pedal Rehousing! Update on ibanez knobs!

[Confuzzled]

I was graciously gifted the attached by a friend and everything is in various working/non working states. Most have battery connectors that are shot, the rack is a mess, the DD-3 sounds ugly as fuck, but the DML10 sounds amazing and needs a new on/off switch and some knobs. Should I search out the right footswitch and try to find some knobs or get it re-housed?

Thoughts?

Brief update! I contacted Ibanez to see about replacement knobs for the old AD9 and the DML10. Turns out they sell them but at ridiculous prices. The DML10 knobs might not be the right color but they are the knobs used on the re-issued wah:

Due to the age of the DML10, we no longer stock the original parts for it. However, since the AD9 uses the same knobs as the TS9, those are still available!



Large Knob: MKNS010218 (List price $7.99 each)

Small Knob: MKNS010215 (List price $6.99 each)



If you'd like to place an order, any of our authorized dealers can place a special order for you, and may also offer a lower price! You can locate your nearest Ibanez dealer here:



http://www2.ibanez.com/support/dealers/



Or, if you'd like to place a direct order, you can call into Hoshino USA at 1-800-669-4226 and speak with customer service. Our hours are 9am-5pm EST, Monday through Friday. Please note that we must charge full list price for all direct orders, and can only ship within the USA. Additionally, we must run a temporary authorization charge in the amount of $20-30 at the time of processing for all direct orders to ensure that there is enough room on your credit or debit card to cover the shipping cost. This will drop down to the actual shipping cost once your order physically ships from our warehouse, which will be approximately $5 via USPS. Please also allow an additional 1-2 business days for order processing prior to shipment.

The WH10V2 knob is part number 8KBC7002, and list price is $5.00 each. These can also be ordered through an authorized dealer, or directly through us at full retail price!

(they confirmed the knob will fit in a separate email)



Let us know if you have any other questions!



-Ibanez USA

[whoismarykelly]

Rehousing a 10 series pedal would be a serious job because unlike the 9 series or the boss pedal, all the pots are PCB mounted with no connection to the enclosure. So you would either have to replace every pot (good luck with that rotary switch) or figure out mounting for the PCB in the same exact way. Those pedals were completely built around those enclosures. Best bet is to find some knobs that fit and a replacement tactile switch.

[Confuzzled]

Rehousing a 10 series pedal would be a serious job because unlike the 9 series or the boss pedal, all the pots are PCB mounted with no connection to the enclosure. So you would either have to replace every pot (good luck with that rotary switch) or figure out mounting for the PCB in the same exact way. Those pedals were completely built around those enclosures. Best bet is to find some knobs that fit and a replacement tactile switch.

Thanks for the heads up! I didn't want to mount a standard FSW to the pedal and saw a few switches on reverb but I wasn't sure which was the right one. one that I saw seems to slide into the board with tabs but mine has the wires which I twisted together and plugged in with my 9v adapter and it works beautifully.

Any tips on finding replacement knobs or switches or should I stick with reverb & ebay?

[Confuzzled]

this is what I found. Just not sure which would be best:

https://reverb.com/marketplace?query=ib ... t%20switch

[coupleonapkins]

Any tips on finding replacement knobs or switches or should I stick with reverb & ebay?

The 10 series Ibanez knobs are notoriously difficult to find (as per their plastic/PCB mounted build), but the green Tubescreamer knobs are the ones that pop up most often. In my experience, it was actually cheaper to buy a DOA/parts series 10 pedal & harvest what I could!

[Confuzzled]

Any tips on finding replacement knobs or switches or should I stick with reverb & ebay?

The 10 series Ibanez knobs are notoriously difficult to find (as per their plastic/PCB mounted build), but the green Tubescreamer knobs are the ones that pop up most often. In my experience, it was actually cheaper to buy a DOA/parts series 10 pedal & harvest what I could!

Thank you all for the help!

[frodog]

Well definitely don't rehouse a 10-series pedal, those enclosures are the best. I also have a DML10 where the switch is a bit worn. Have seen replacements on ebay but they're expensive. As you need knobs too, I'd also recommend buying a used one for parts. You can probably find a DS10 cheap, they don't sound good (hence might be lightly used), but have six knobs in the correct color. I have one, but will keep to mod.

[Sonaboy]

Well definitely don't rehouse a 10-series pedal, those enclosures are the best. I also have a DML10 where the switch is a bit worn. Have seen replacements on ebay but they're expensive. As you need knobs too, I'd also recommend buying a used one for parts. You can probably find a DS10 cheap, they don't sound good (hence might be lightly used), but have six knobs in the correct color. I have one, but will keep to mod.

^^^
What he said - there are some pedals in the 10 series that are stupid cheap. $30 - $50.
I think you can get a close match on the green knobs from the low end delay of the 10 series, the light blue one called the DL10.

(which was my first ever effect I bought, incidentally).

[Jwar]

Can I see guts shots of the 10 series? Now I feel super challenged and want to see how hard it would be to rehouse one of these.

[whoismarykelly]

Can I see guts shots of the 10 series? Now I feel super challenged and want to see how hard it would be to rehouse one of these.

Its the same issues as any pedal with old custom-spec pots and rotary switches that are PCB mounted. If you try to put that PCB in a new box, you have to build all the appropriate mounts into the box and use the same control layout. At that point, you're just making a crappy version of the original. If you wanted to try a different layout, you'll never find proper panel mount blend pots and rotary switches to match the originals. Those parts just don't exist on the current component market.

And that's not even getting into whether the PCB will survive the work.

[rfurtkamp]

The RDS rack is a fun toy (I still have three).

That said, you're going to want to visit the hardware store with it and find screws.

That tape will not survive the thing (they often, often, often get physically warm, and hijinks ensue there with a gummy mess)!

Should you want footswitch control, any standard Echoplex-style thing will work.

I have a few of these (ok, more than a few, as I used to gig with a rackfull of things that needed them!):

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifi ... footswitch

[Jwar]

Can I see guts shots of the 10 series? Now I feel super challenged and want to see how hard it would be to rehouse one of these.

Its the same issues as any pedal with old custom-spec pots and rotary switches that are PCB mounted. If you try to put that PCB in a new box, you have to build all the appropriate mounts into the box and use the same control layout. At that point, you're just making a crappy version of the original. If you wanted to try a different layout, you'll never find proper panel mount blend pots and rotary switches to match the originals. Those parts just don't exist on the current component market.

And that's not even getting into whether the PCB will survive the work.

I know exactly what you're saying and I've ran across pedals like this that are the biggest pain in the ass to rehouse. PCB mounted pedals in general are a huge pain in the ass because you don't have the damn drill layout. So you have to measure everything meticulously and create one just to stick it in a new box without upgrading anything LOL. A pcb mounted rotary as well? Yea, fuck that shit. I HATE working with rotaries. They are cool features, but a pain in my ass.

This reminds me of Pigtronix. I pulled one of those fuckers apart once to rehouse it, it's was the cheapest crap I've ever worked with. Fractional amounts of heated caused traces to lift off the pcb and jumping the traces didn't work. Basically, I pulled it out, tried to rehouse it, it never worked again aside from the bypass switch and LED. This is after doing countless rehouses. That was actually turning point for me with rehousing too. Ugh.


Yea, you're right here, not worth it at all.

[Confuzzled]

Can I see guts shots of the 10 series? Now I feel super challenged and want to see how hard it would be to rehouse one of these.

Its the same issues as any pedal with old custom-spec pots and rotary switches that are PCB mounted. If you try to put that PCB in a new box, you have to build all the appropriate mounts into the box and use the same control layout. At that point, you're just making a crappy version of the original. If you wanted to try a different layout, you'll never find proper panel mount blend pots and rotary switches to match the originals. Those parts just don't exist on the current component market.

And that's not even getting into whether the PCB will survive the work.

I know exactly what you're saying and I've ran across pedals like this that are the biggest pain in the ass to rehouse. PCB mounted pedals in general are a huge pain in the ass because you don't have the damn drill layout. So you have to measure everything meticulously and create one just to stick it in a new box without upgrading anything LOL. A pcb mounted rotary as well? Yea, fuck that shit. I HATE working with rotaries. They are cool features, but a pain in my ass.

This reminds me of Pigtronix. I pulled one of those fuckers apart once to rehouse it, it's was the cheapest crap I've ever worked with. Fractional amounts of heated caused traces to lift off the pcb and jumping the traces didn't work. Basically, I pulled it out, tried to rehouse it, it never worked again aside from the bypass switch and LED. This is after doing countless rehouses. That was actually turning point for me with rehousing too. Ugh.


Yea, you're right here, not worth it at all.

Ha! I did find a replacement fsw and will eventually find knobs that fit. I can still take gutshot pics if you want.

[Confuzzled]

The RDS rack is a fun toy (I still have three).

That said, you're going to want to visit the hardware store with it and find screws.

That tape will not survive the thing (they often, often, often get physically warm, and hijinks ensue there with a gummy mess)!

Should you want footswitch control, any standard Echoplex-style thing will work.

I have a few of these (ok, more than a few, as I used to gig with a rackfull of things that needed them!):

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifi ... footswitch

Actually I have the screws inside! He taped it up so they wouldn't fall out. The power cable was cut so I have to replace that. Not sure if it works or even makes a sound.

[rfurtkamp]

It'll be worth your effort - the topography of the signal path is fascinatingly oddball.

Sample+hold you can adjust the time non-destructively and bring it back - and LFO is post-buffer as well, so you can make it do all sorts of warbling then back off and return.

It was my go-to destructobox live where I'd run it into a Bassman with 1x15 JBL, crank it up to ungodly, sel the LFO to deep and slow, turn down the time on a loop, and use it as a background pulsing ugly drone.