Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

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Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by tremulant »

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I spent some time with mulder and scully while lobotomizing a DL4, needless to say I'm stoked. It's the same length as a standard 1590, so way more pedal board friendly now. also took down like half the weight by taking the battery compartment off and the rubber off the back plate, too.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by odontophobia »

Whoa. Cool shit. Aesthetically very pleasing.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Faldoe »

Goddamn, dude. Why didn't I think of that years ago?! I just scored a beat up DL-4 a few days ago and I know what I'm doing this weekend. You used a hacksaw? Did you grind/smooth the edge after the cut? It looks really clean for a hacksaw. Nicely done.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Jwar »

Hack saw sounds like a pain in the ass! That's dedication there!

Where can one score these cheap to fuck up???
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by D.o.S. »

Everywhere? They're sort of ubiquitous.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Jwar »

Ok. I guess I should refine my question. What's a good, cheap used price on these??
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Benn Roe »

Around $100, in my experience.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Faldoe »

Yeah, I just got mine for $80. No power supply but that's not an issue cause most power supplies - pp2+, etc - should be able to power it.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by tremulant »

I got this one for a 100 shipped with a poopy power supply, if you're really lucky I've seen them go for as low as 75. I did use a little bench grinder that i got at harbor freight forever ago after the rough cut was done. I found that the back was way more taxing to cut efficiently than the top - at least on the top you have the frame it self to kind of guide the blade. It takes a lot of time, yes. I don't know how many episodes of the x files I watched but it was over a few nights.


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I took the top off in three big chunks in order to keep the little canine dealies it's got. I attached a picture to see how, roughly - the two diagonal lines came off first and then the (cork backed) ruler pictured on it was used to start the pilot line for the big cut. Just jamming that as close as it can go is magically the right distance away that you need that line to be in order for it to come out straight

Let it be known I FUUUCKED up my bench grinder after trying to make it look all derelick-like. Wear a sarsmask doing it
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Faldoe »

Nice, I'm not sure if I want a clean cut of keeping those little bumps. Did you keep the bottom plate cut at the same angle so as to still use
The top plate screws?
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by tremulant »

I tried to at first but ended up just doing a straight line across. It ended up cutting through the middle of the holes but I can still use them


Just take your time with a hack saw otherwise you'll get way more aggravated than you need to
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by jrfox92 »

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Nicely done. :joy: I've always been curious how easy it is to do that mod.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by codetocontra »

Nice work. Thought about rehousing mine for a while. This is more efficient. Maybe.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by Faldoe »

Yeah, I had rehoused one in a custom plexiglass enclosure I had made but it ended up not being that much smaller given the PCB is so big. This is a way better method.
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Re: Mulder+Scully+Hack Saw + DL4

Post by tremulant »

you miiiiight be able to make one fit inside of one of these:

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i have one of these things kicking around my apartment right now and the PCB of a DL4 looks like it would fit by the skin of it's teeth. you'd definitely have to do some sort of mods to the enclosure itself to make it work. given all the surface mount components ahd having to fabricate a new top and back plate I thought it could get hairy and i opted to do what i did instead
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