multi_s wrote:
you would need to mute them with a fade out, not just a sudden chop to ground, otherwise you are right, you are likely to get pop artifacts if you are playing. an alternative is maybe to measure a through zero crossing and try to switch/mute close to that instant to minimize popping.
most relays have a switch time of around 3ms, you can usually find something about this on the data sheet. if you have break before make (BBM) style that means you have 3ms where nothing is connected, but if you use make before break (MBB) you have 3ms where both throws are connected. neither are ideal, the latter is likely to create a less noticeable artifact if audio is passing while you switch, but for whatever reason latching relays tend to be more available in BBM style.
i think most people just live with the possibility of artifacts with relay switching because it keeps the design simple.
Yeah my relays are latching form c so I'm guessing they're BBM. I can't find that explicitly stated on the datasheet, but it seems likely. They've also got a switching time of about 2ms according to the data sheet. If I go for anything as complicated as watching for a zero crossing, I'll probably end up with a prototype with the possible artifacts first regardless, so we'll see how it goes!
Although I'm pretty sure with the board I'm using, watching for zero crossing wouldn't actually be the worst thing in the world. It has pretty good A/D converters and I could probably sample pretty damn quick, maybe even get up to 44.1k. If I have a decently wide range of acceptably low voltages, it could probably pull it off. I'm gonna save that idea, thanks man!
eatyourguitar wrote:I think the common solution is a combination of relays and solid state devices like analog mux demux switches, FET shunt to ground, or another relay that has the 1M in it.
So I could use the optical mosfet pairs I have for this. Connect the center pin of the relay to ground through a big resistor to prevent any DC bias from accumulating during the ~2ms time where there's no connection. This seems to make a lot sense. Although if the resistor is big enough, why not just leave it connected always? At 10M it can't be affecting the impedance of the pedals that much could it?
I'll be in LA for a few days so I won't get to try any of this until next week, but I'll make sure to post back when I do. Thanks guys!