So, I bought a small tube of MG Chemicals SN96 (Tin/Copper/Silver) to try out. I didn't have any trouble with it. I noticed the higher melting point, but it didn't cause a problem. I ended up using less solder and getting just as solid of connections, so that makes the price a little easier to handle.
But, when I went to order a 1lb. roll of it (which will last me basically forever), I noticed how much more expensive it is than the SN99 (Tin/Copper). $46 with silver, $33 without (and $25 for leaded, for comparison). So... my question for those that have tried it (or just used the kind without silver)... does the silver really help? I know it has a lower melting point, but that's it. Are the connections stronger with silver? It's a pretty small amount of silver... and I don't know if the 10 degrees (C) melting point difference will be that significant.
Or if you have other recommendations for lead-free solder, I'm game.
Lead Free Solder Alloys...
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The DIY forum is for personal projects (things that are not for sale, not in production), info sharing, peer to peer assistance. No backdoor spamming (DIY posts that are actually advertisements for your business). No clones of in-production pedals. If you have concerns or questions, feel free to PM admin. Thanks so much!
- McSpunckle
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
...but why would you want to use lead-free when you live in the united states? I get that you used less, but is that worth all the extra cost? Idk about you but I buy solder a lot, and I'm broke, so an 8 dollar difference is pretty huge to me...
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
It's just worked out quite well for me. I haven't had any trouble with it, and it seems to be about 1/3 less solder (MG Checmicals actually lists that in the specs, and it's seemed about right to me).
I was also under the impression that it was bad to mix them. I'd imagine most bigger named pedals are using lead free at this point, since you kinda need to to sell to Europe/California (as far as I know), so I was just gonna stick to the one I'd think I'd run into more often. I imagine lead free solder will get even more common.
I have a roll of leaded solder for working in older stuff, so that's not really an issue.
-edit-
Also, from the MG Chemicals specs:
# 1 lb of lead free solder has 27% more length than leaded solder
I guess that means it weighs less, since lead is pretty heavy. So, really the cheaper lead free is barely more expensive...
I was also under the impression that it was bad to mix them. I'd imagine most bigger named pedals are using lead free at this point, since you kinda need to to sell to Europe/California (as far as I know), so I was just gonna stick to the one I'd think I'd run into more often. I imagine lead free solder will get even more common.
I have a roll of leaded solder for working in older stuff, so that's not really an issue.
-edit-
Also, from the MG Chemicals specs:
# 1 lb of lead free solder has 27% more length than leaded solder
I guess that means it weighs less, since lead is pretty heavy. So, really the cheaper lead free is barely more expensive...
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
I like solder. It tastes delicious.
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
veteransdaypoppy wrote:I like solder. It tastes delicious.
That's one thing lead free will never come close to leaded on... taste. Slap some 63/37 on some whole wheat bread with some tomato... OMG! GET IN MY MOUTH!
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
McSpunckle wrote:It's just worked out quite well for me. I haven't had any trouble with it, and it seems to be about 1/3 less solder (MG Checmicals actually lists that in the specs, and it's seemed about right to me).
I was also under the impression that it was bad to mix them. I'd imagine most bigger named pedals are using lead free at this point, since you kinda need to to sell to Europe/California (as far as I know), so I was just gonna stick to the one I'd think I'd run into more often. I imagine lead free solder will get even more common.
I have a roll of leaded solder for working in older stuff, so that's not really an issue.
-edit-
Also, from the MG Chemicals specs:
# 1 lb of lead free solder has 27% more length than leaded solder
I guess that means it weighs less, since lead is pretty heavy. So, really the cheaper lead free is barely more expensive...
Oh ok, now I see... well heck, I may even switch to lead-free after this. It all sounds pretty great...
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
Just a little info before you switch thinking it's better... take it if you will.
Unleaded solder doesn't last as long as leaded and eventually 'whiskers' out, shorting nearby connections so it's not all great, it's fairly unreliable in relation to leaded (hence why it is more damaging to the enviroment (atleast in commerical products, not stompboxes I suppose) as they go to the landfill sooner. You could argue that removing lead from the products means that it is not transferred via rain water anymore but it does nothing to curb the issues of landfill dumping in the first place)
The fumes from unleaded are also more toxic and harmful than leaded (you'd think the leaded ones would be worse but the smoke from the solder is mainly flux burning only a mild irritant and the lead doesn't become airborne at soldering temperatures. In unleaded the flux is more active so you get more of the chemicals so a fume removal fan is definitley advised)
Unleaded is slightly harder to work with than unleaded too (and requires more heat) but silver solder is supposedly more prefferable for ease of flow (and is also more shiny, unleaded solder always makes joints look dull... but that's just a personal thing)
To me, it was a case of it aint broke don't fix it, new isn't always better but if you wanna use it, no reason not to, just not my personal preference and reasoning, if you find unleaded easy to work with and prefer the idea, go for it.
Unleaded solder doesn't last as long as leaded and eventually 'whiskers' out, shorting nearby connections so it's not all great, it's fairly unreliable in relation to leaded (hence why it is more damaging to the enviroment (atleast in commerical products, not stompboxes I suppose) as they go to the landfill sooner. You could argue that removing lead from the products means that it is not transferred via rain water anymore but it does nothing to curb the issues of landfill dumping in the first place)
The fumes from unleaded are also more toxic and harmful than leaded (you'd think the leaded ones would be worse but the smoke from the solder is mainly flux burning only a mild irritant and the lead doesn't become airborne at soldering temperatures. In unleaded the flux is more active so you get more of the chemicals so a fume removal fan is definitley advised)
Unleaded is slightly harder to work with than unleaded too (and requires more heat) but silver solder is supposedly more prefferable for ease of flow (and is also more shiny, unleaded solder always makes joints look dull... but that's just a personal thing)
To me, it was a case of it aint broke don't fix it, new isn't always better but if you wanna use it, no reason not to, just not my personal preference and reasoning, if you find unleaded easy to work with and prefer the idea, go for it.
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
^This I agree with, largely. Leaded solder melts easier. It's easier to work with if you have a cheaper iron, but more powerful irons (I use a Weller WES51) make it pretty well the same.
As for melting temp, the cheap lead free takes a higher temp. Adding the silver brings the melting point down and increases its "wetability." In the case of MG Chemicals solder, the 60/40 leaded melts at about 185C, and cheaper lead free (Tin/copper) melts at 227C. The Tin/Copper really isn't as good of solder. Takes a lot of heat, the joints are brittle, etc. It's just a cheap way to get lead free solder. In a stomp box, I'm sure it's fine. Adding the silver, according to the stuff I read, makes it as strong (or even slightly better) than leaded. The melting temp is reduced to 217C, so it's a bit easier to work with. It is, of course, more expensive. Tin whiskers weren't mentioned, so I have no idea of how well it handles that problem.
As I said, I always thought they were bad to mix, and since most name brand things are lead free at this point, it seems like a good idea to go ahead and use lead-free.
Newer products are failing for far more reasons than solder today. It's often poor engineering or cheap assed components.
Wow, I agreed and kinda rebutted at the same time.
As for melting temp, the cheap lead free takes a higher temp. Adding the silver brings the melting point down and increases its "wetability." In the case of MG Chemicals solder, the 60/40 leaded melts at about 185C, and cheaper lead free (Tin/copper) melts at 227C. The Tin/Copper really isn't as good of solder. Takes a lot of heat, the joints are brittle, etc. It's just a cheap way to get lead free solder. In a stomp box, I'm sure it's fine. Adding the silver, according to the stuff I read, makes it as strong (or even slightly better) than leaded. The melting temp is reduced to 217C, so it's a bit easier to work with. It is, of course, more expensive. Tin whiskers weren't mentioned, so I have no idea of how well it handles that problem.
As I said, I always thought they were bad to mix, and since most name brand things are lead free at this point, it seems like a good idea to go ahead and use lead-free.
Newer products are failing for far more reasons than solder today. It's often poor engineering or cheap assed components.
Wow, I agreed and kinda rebutted at the same time.

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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
Lead Free Solder: If NASA won't use it, neither will I!

I love the smell of solder in the morning.
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Re: Lead Free Solder Alloys...
nbabmf wrote:Lead Free Solder: If NASA won't use it, neither will I!
