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So after deciding how lame it is to keep something original to preserve value, I've decided to make my Russian Big Muff both useful and less likely to fall apart if someone looks at it the wrong way.

So here's the plan;
-True Bypass (because fuck the rickety big Russian footswitch and fuck the huge high end roll-off in bypass)
-24mm Alpha pots (because fuck the rickety Russian pots)
-Neutrik Jacks (because fuck the rickety Russian plastic jacks)
-Mid control (because I like mids, sue me)
-DC Jack
-Powder coating the enclosure either pink or white (If it was a green russian on the outside as well as the inside I'd try to keep it as original looking as possible, but it's not, so fuck it)
-Possibly silkscreened graphics? IDK, I've taken scans of the original graphics so the graphics will remain original just a different colour.

And here's what I've done so far;
-Modified internal steel plate so that it doesn't get in the way of the new pots which will now be mounted on the actual chassis
-Stole the aluminium plate from the old footswitch and riveted it to the internal plate as it conveniently has a perfect hole for a proper 3PDT footswitch
-Started to fix the old battery door, don't know if i'll keep it functional or just rivet it in place as I won't be using batteries
-Enlarged LED hole to take the pot for the mids control and marked the new LED location
-Clipped the cap and resistor to be changed for the mids control and removed the old jacks from the PCB

Super keen to see how this turns out.

Is the OE Russian footswitch available for dissection?

I would have put the footswitch adapter plate on top of the main chassis plate, rather than underneath. The way it is now, every time you step on that switch, the stress will bend that small plate, and pull on the rivets. It will be wobbly loose in no time. If you rivet it on top, then the chassis will bear the stress (as it was designed to do), and the rivets will last much longer.

Unless you're trying to retain some of the cheap-ass Russian construction....

this is legit.

crochambeau wrote:Is the OE Russian footswitch available for dissection?

Sure, just pay shipping and it's yours, PM me.

digi2t wrote:I would have put the footswitch adapter plate on top of the main chassis plate, rather than underneath. The way it is now, every time you step on that switch, the stress will bend that small plate, and pull on the rivets. It will be wobbly loose in no time. If you rivet it on top, then the chassis will bear the stress (as it was designed to do), and the rivets will last much longer.

Unless you're trying to retain some of the cheap-ass Russian construction....

Don't worry, I've thought about this, I will be placing a washer on top of the steel plate to deal with the stress, the aluminium plate is just there to centralize the footswitch in the hole, I had thought about doing it how you suggested but their wouldn't be enough clearance between the top of the steel plate and the chassis, you can also see the assembly through the hole in the chassis and my way looks a little less "DIY" as the little aluminium plate isn't exactly perfect.

Iommic Pope wrote:Super keen to see how this turns out.

waltdogg wrote:this is legit.

Hell yes dude. I had a super modded russian big muff that was done by someone on this here forum, but I can't remember who did it. Had switches that did things to the mids, a midsknob, true bypass, reversed input/output jacks, 9v input jack and a clean blend. PM Jrmy about it, I bought it from him.

I also really regret selling it

When I read this title I thought you meant the collector pins on transistors...

Sprayed the steel plate black today to make it less visible through the old footswitch hole and drilled the chassis for the LED and DC jack today.

Was going to do the footswitch wiring today as well but my soldering iron's now dead which means I'll either have to take it in to work to do during my lunch, or wait until payday and buy a new one And to make it worse, the hole for the LED's about 0.75mm off centre, which doesn't sound like a lot, but it's enough to be noticeable

Rad.
Bummer about the slight misalignment. Could you get a bigger washer to sit on top and cover it?

Also, this is gonna look great pink. You doing the whole box or just the cover/too.
My 2c, but i think 2 tone would look cool....

do you even digital caliper bro?

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Elec ... 000GSLKIW/

Iommic Pope wrote:Rad.
Bummer about the slight misalignment. Could you get a bigger washer to sit on top and cover it?

Also, this is gonna look great pink. You doing the whole box or just the cover/too.
My 2c, but i think 2 tone would look cool....

I'll be doing it all one colour as I'll be getting the powder coating done as a favour so I want to keep it as simple as possible, still don't know if i'm going pink or white yet though.

If the misalignment bothers me too much I'll just patch the enclosure with epoxy and re-drill it before it gets powder coated.

eatyourguitar wrote:do you even digital caliper bro?

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Elec ... 000GSLKIW/

It wasn't the marking that was at fault tbf, the drill bit skipped when I was drilling the pilot hole, if only I had space for a pillar drill...

It's gonna be a workhorse. Much like a diesel Ford Focus