ilovefuzz.com

considering setting up one of my basses for drop c or c standard, what fucking gauge of strings should i use? im guessing i'm going have to butcher my nut with files to fit heavier strings. i have the proper files so *fret* not. and i know what else will need to be done setup wise. i'm mainly just trying to find out what string gauge i should use and if it's really worth butchering the nut on my vintage mij p-bass or my original usa made s.u.b. or should i just get another even cheaper bass? it's not like the p-bass or s.u.b are pricey, they're just rare and well made.

Nuts are pretty cheap to replace so you could always buy a new nut and just swap them.

And I think you'll need one of these
http://store.kaliumstrings.com/index.ph ... -266s.html

115

hmm...

I sometimes down tune to C standard, I use 110 and don't mind how slack they feel.

Mudfuzz wrote:115

100% trust Mudfuzz.

DR specfically makes a string for down-tuning.

I BEAD-ified a bass with nothing more than the old rounds by using them as files in the next slot down. It worked. It's not perfect, but since I don't play P&W in a church no one will never notice.

It's not always necessary to file the nut, just depends on the individual instrument. Sometimes they're already cut with a pretty wide tolerance. I had a P bass that I was able to put the lower 4 strings of a 5 string set on without modification for BEAD tuning (though admittedly, that is unusual). Sometimes you can literally just drag a roundwound string back and forth a few times and it sits right, like bloatedsack stated.

I would try just going a set or two up in thickness and try it out. It's going to need a fresh setup no matter what. Anything with a hex core would be a good choice, as they're a bit stiffer in general. I've had good experiences with DR and D'Addario.

Yeah I've had pretty decent results on my jazz bass with D'Addario .110, probably not quite good enough for using it in that tuning constantly (of course this depends on how you prefer your action, it would probably be fine for some people) but was very acceptable for a good amount of jamming and recording when I needed it. No fooling required, just a little bit of setup.

I prefer stiff tension with a "standard" (roberto venn school of luthiery) setup. i use 10-52s tuned to e standard on guitar and 45-105s on bass for e standard as well. dunlops for guitar. drs for bass.

closer inspection of the nut on the musicman looks like it was some tolerance for wider strings.

i know muddfuzz uses rics and i'm talking about a musicman, idr the scale of rics. dr's 55-115 ddt set might work though. if not i could just use the 4 low strings out of a 5 string set that goes to 125. stability is a big issue for me. i used to use power slinkys tuned to c standard, not enough tension, too light.

I've been playing in C,F,A#,D# for about the last 15 years (mainly). I do use other tunings occasionally.

I use T.I. Jazz Flats - the 5 banger set - tuned UP. So you've got the .136 on the C.
I've been using this setup for a good 10years now, I haven't found a better option, and I've been through a lot of different options.
FWIW, I use Rick 4003, Maton JB4, Fender P.

Most .110/.115 strings sound flabby and are too loose (for me) down in C - I need extra tension for good tone. The TI's are a very loose string to start with, so tuning them up makes them perfect for me. I prefer a tension that isn't too stiff, as I like to slide and bend a lot.

FWIW, butchering the nut doesn't matter - getting replacement nuts is easy, replacing them will take a little effort but it's worth it to get the right strings on.

waltdogg wrote:i know muddfuzz uses rics and i'm talking about a musicman

Actually mudfuzz owns around 20 basses, only three are Rics.. my main axe being a 34" scale fly V bass I built. MM are the same as any 34" scale bass.. they all are the same in terms of string tension with the same things, it's math, you can't fight math.

115 is the standard string for that tuning, doesn't mean you will like it but it is a starting point, you have to know where zero is.. and without you giving any info on what you like you basses set up like you got the super awesome generic what works for the masses of dudes that post on TB.

Personally I would use a 120 to125 because I use 130 B strings on all my 5 string basses and BEAD tuned basses and you have to factor in that you are only talking a 1/2 step up from low B so you want a little less tension.

slave wrote:I use T.I. Jazz Flats - the 5 banger set - tuned UP. So you've got the .136 on the C.
I've been using this setup for a good 10years now, I haven't found a better option, and I've been through a lot of different options.
FWIW, I use Rick 4003, Maton JB4, Fender P.

The problem with TI jazz flats is their diameter is not a realistic comparison compared to other bass strings because they have dampening between the wraps like upright strings do.

das a lotta basses.

but yes, thank you for the "starting" point. and your 120/125 suggestion is the one i'll take.

Mudfuzz wrote:

slave wrote:I use T.I. Jazz Flats - the 5 banger set - tuned UP. So you've got the .136 on the C.
I've been using this setup for a good 10years now, I haven't found a better option, and I've been through a lot of different options.
FWIW, I use Rick 4003, Maton JB4, Fender P.

The problem with TI jazz flats is their diameter is not a realistic comparison compared to other bass strings because they have dampening between the wraps like upright strings do.

I don't care whether it's fair. They're a pretty good option for the goal stated.
And FWIW, our OP hasn't actually stated whether they're after flats or rounds.

The reason I like the T.I's is more to do with the tension and feel (they are supple and springy, rather than stiff like most flats) than the diameter. In straight up BEAD they're almost too loose. Tuned up to C they are just right. They are also quite balanced across the whole set, unlike a lot of string sets.
Like I said, I've been using these strings for quite a while, and I've been through a lot of sets of different strings to get to this point after some 20+ years of playing stoner rock/metal etc..
The other thing with flats - you only buy strings once. And they'll last the next 10 years. Worth considering.