Clari(not) Clone question
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Clari(not) Clone question
I just got a clarinot clone with a fuzz lift, but even with the fuzz of there's a slight distortion when playing on the lower strings. Anyone know how I can fix this?
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
Try a series resistor at the input: You could put a 100k pot there and dial it around until you get the desired cleanliness, and replace it with the appropriate fixed value. This resistor will also slightly reduce the fuzz amount when you switch it back in, so you might want to replace the fuzz switch with a DPDT wired so one pole shorts pin 1-8 and the other pole shorts the new resistor.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
It may be the PT2399 itself distorting, in which case you could always try putting a green LED on pin 7, a la John Patton. Works amazingly well.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
that would be my guess. probably just a volume issue.stradivari310 wrote:It may be the PT2399 itself distorting
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
.stradivari310 wrote:It may be the PT2399 itself distorting, in which case you could always try putting a green LED on pin 7, a la John Patton. Works amazingly well.
Last edited by Addy Bart on Sat Mar 04, 2017 6:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
It's because the fuzz lift is a terrible mod haha.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
If you'd like a truly clean clari, add a buffer on the front end (I use a jfet), split the signal to the 386, and the pt2399.
Replace the 100k resistor that feeds the PT with a 12k resistor.
For the buffer a standard J201 1m 10k setup, with two 10uf caps (one to the delay chip, one to the env follower).
Replace the 100k resistor that feeds the PT with a 12k resistor.
For the buffer a standard J201 1m 10k setup, with two 10uf caps (one to the delay chip, one to the env follower).
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
And scrap the volume pot.
This can be made switchable, but it's a bit of a task.
This can be made switchable, but it's a bit of a task.
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- Addy Bart
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
Thanks Doug! I did this using a 2n5457 and it worked a charm.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
Without the volume pot, does it still need the 100n cap? I built it without and it's working but there's a loud pop (probably because I forgot the 1m pull down resistor). I'm wondering if the 100n on the end is necessary for decoupling DC from the output?
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
I'd say better to keep the cap in there to block DC coming from the pt2399 but add a pull down resistor instead of the volume pot to avoid popping.Addy Bart wrote:Without the volume pot, does it still need the 100n cap? I built it without and it's working but there's a loud pop (probably because I forgot the 1m pull down resistor). I'm wondering if the 100n on the end is necessary for decoupling DC from the output?
It can be lower than 1M though. 100k is fine.
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Re: Clari(not) Clone question
Thanks David, I'll give this another try. Be cool to get rid of the pop.drolo wrote:I'd say better to keep the cap in there to block DC coming from the pt2399 but add a pull down resistor instead of the volume pot to avoid popping.Addy Bart wrote:Without the volume pot, does it still need the 100n cap? I built it without and it's working but there's a loud pop (probably because I forgot the 1m pull down resistor). I'm wondering if the 100n on the end is necessary for decoupling DC from the output?
It can be lower than 1M though. 100k is fine.
I previously had the cap and 100k resistor on the board (can't remember if it popped or not

Should be able to add these off board though. Cheers.
