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This unit has sone bypass relays for bypassing signal when the unit is off (power off is bypass on the DEP-5). Apparently the bypass relays corrode and will stop opening when powered on. They only really prevent the unit from popping when being on and aren't necesarry. Some people have reported bypassing them with a jumper wire. I'm just wondering how I would go about bypassing them. I've asked a couple people on other forums and the only real response I get is "you just remove the relays and bypass them with a wire"....I mean I understand the concept but HOW haha.

Here's what i've been told by a fella who's done it-

"A relay is a electrical controlled switch, so all you have to do is remove the relays en hardwire the contacts needed in operation possition.
De-soldering the relays can be a difficult thing to do for some of us , so alternative you can ignore those relays, cut some traces and hardwire the relay contacts"

Image for reference

I might be able to get back to you on this one, as I have a friends DEP-5 poised to hit my bench in the next day or so.

It is literally as simple as running a wire, though you do need to be mindful of the coil voltage. This would explain some of his problems with it, so I'll be sure to take pics. Thanks for possibly saving me an hour of research!

Good to know! I think I've scoured the Internet for every Web page mentioning the DEP-5 last night, even translating foreign pages. Got it for a song, and just can't wait to start messing with it.

So I got back to my apartment (got this on a visit to Kentucky) and it all works fine. Maybe it was a bad cable or amp, either way I got pretty lucky. This unit is pretty amazing. Has some of the best glitching, but that infinite reverb . $40 well spent

Any luck on your friend's? It started doing it again, bad bad, so definitely gonna need to bypass those relays now....

if you post the other side of the board I could tell you

A) what to cut and what to solder

B) what panasonic relays are suitable replacements

I will probably need the schematic at some point to determine the polarity of the control logic and also determine if the relay is a momentary or latching type. if you jumper it with a wire I might not need the schematic.

The relay is a Matsushita DS2V-M-DC12V. In the unit I repaired it turned out the 12 volt supply to trigger the relay was at fault, however I did not catch this first time around. Here is my story:



You need to drop the bottom plate to get this point of view, remove the top plate first (rack ear removal is the first step). Removing the relays is a pain in the ass, if you opt in on cutting traces instead you'll still need to access this side for the narrow trace pictured between the jack and the R178 designator.

Apologies, I *really* wanted to keep this in a single post, but I'm hitting 404 every time I try it (including editing above) so...



This was my first attempt at a fix. When unpowered, the relay connects the rightmost lug I have soldered a jumper to with the lug that is jumped over. Since the relay wasn't trying to change that state, all I accomplished here was creating a feedback loop in the device. Not that stunning.

So here is what's going on: red circles depict the coil (again, no 12 volts on the unit I worked on), yellow depict the common node (input/output jacks both), green is the normally closed, and blue is the normally open. Note the distance between the left relay coil and the right relay switch pins is equidistant - don't let that fool you.



If you're pulling them, the traces on the other side of the board are challenging. I pulled the one depicted in yellow (aforementioned trace that runs next to R178) and had to jump it to the switch as pictured.

It *does* make a pop now on powering up or down, but it also works.

While you're in there, you may as well swap out the battery, I stuck a carrier in there for future upkeep, but it was a horizontal configuration that required I utilize the rectangular hole in the ground plane next to the crystal - which was an interference fit so legs needed to be lengthened. Go with a vertical caddy unless you have the parts already.



Hurray for post count! hahaha

Hmmm gonna have to decide whether I really want to undertake this atm, I know I could and I know I should, but have my time tied with various bends which are luckily selling, and any free time is used on the 2 albums I'm mixing....may be better to pass this off to a shop to fix for me...ughh

Thanks for these pics, definitely leading me to think I should just do it this weekend. Could I just replace the battery with one of those capacitor looking ones or should I just get a coin cell holder and try fitting that in?

Wait, so this is the fix?




If so, hell yea!


Pull and add those 2 wires?

you can buy replacement relays we have all the information

Psyre wrote:Wait, so this is the fix?




If so, hell yea!


Pull and add those 2 wires?

Four wires added, but yes, this was the fix.

eatyourguitar wrote:you can buy replacement relays we have all the information

Just make sure you have 12 volts supplied and try not to lift any traces.

does the unit have a broken 12v regulator? or was it just running 5v to the relays?