ilovefuzz.com

Picked it up for $40 on kijiji.









It already has a red fasel so I'm going to leave it for now.

If I change it out, it will be the last change.

I ordered a sealed Joe Ganan pot. It has a smaller gear and supposed to get more sweep range.

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/121428277416?nav=SEARCH

$21 shipped directly through his Facebook.

Good deal as it's $22 alone at small bear.

This should be fun. Easier than my v847a.

I'm ordering new caps. ( orange drops and tropical fish) and new resistors for recommended swaps.

Any input on caps and resistors welcome.

I only half believe in the mojo of buying special capacitors. I found that some of the newer panasonic electrolytic can sound exactly like the old axial panasonic electrolytic if I just increase the ESR by adding a resistor in series. some circuits are more sensitive than others. there is a noticeable difference with ceramic vs film due to the hysteresis of the ceramic but I think most of the time an old film chicklet will sound just like the new one. the tolerance is huge at %20 (for each capacitor = %40) so it is not uncommon that it does sound different but this is not ruling out a value change unless you can actually test them both to %1 of each other. they also make high end C0G ceramic caps now so they are closer to film but not film.

in summary, tropical fish are overrated. Orange drops are overrated. film is king unless you are in the < 470pf then get C0G. if you want something very specific buy %5 caps.

Ok. I have ordered some tropical fish (10%)in various values(.01, .015, .022). And resistors (5%)in various values. (1.8, 2.2,68, 330 ohm).

These are all recommended widely across many forums. So I'm going to start with these as the mods are easy and I can switch the values out to see how things react.

As one tutorial said... "These changes are not permanent and you can always go back!"

Also ordered the Joe Gagan Smooth 100k pot.

Switch undetermined. But true bypass. Led maybe. Is led important to many? I've never had one on my Wah so I never really thought about it until now.

I'm leaving the fasel. For now.

The fun begins next week. If mail allows.

I'll probably remove the buffer in the mean time. Or should I wait until the bypass is in?

Do the TB mod. It isn't that hard and it makes a huge difference.

True byPass is a no brainer.

That was what inspired mods for me altogether!

if it pops in true bypass you can check for 1M pulldowns on the input and output with your meter. you don't want to add pulldowns if they are already there. it does not need to be 1M it could be 3M or something. it just bleeds the charge off the caps in a few ms no worries about the longer discharge time still in the milliseconds.

Uh. I don't have a meter.........

Ok. Noob time. Might be doob time too if my head gets frangled. :O

So far, the mods I have done have not required such a device.

What is it exactly that I require one for?

check for shorts, check the value of resistors, check battery voltages, transistor voltages. they are usually required for troubleshooting past the simple stuff. it is a small price to pay for a time saving device. it might even save your life one day if you are working on power supplies or mains.

I see. Kinda.

I still don't know how to use one or when. So that's obviously another learning curve.

In regards to the red fasel... Appears this is now stock in the GCB95. Dunlop had released the GCB95F (F for Fasel I assume) but I'm not sure if there was any other difference.

I may switch it out to try mod away from stock. Just because.

Man $$ add up when you be having fun.

Just ordered the 3pdt switch. The blue one that you see everywhere. And a black one... To compare.

Also ordered the led kit on eBay ...

$11 shipped to me. Check the link out. Good deal for anyone wanting them.

$11 for an LED

Led kit. With resistor , bevel, light.

I'm ok with that. As I'm in canada. My options are limited as shipping from the USA is usually $12 ALONE!

If there is a better option , as a noob, I'll take it.