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So i'm fixing this pedal for a fellow ILFer. It sounds a good as it looks but the attack knob isn't working at all.
I reflowed a few solder joints but I can't seem to zero in on the issue.
I'm wondering if a part needs to be replaced or it's just a disintegrated connection along the board. Shit like that is tough to repair.
So yeah the threshold knob works, the attack knob doesn't. And that attack knob is where all the soul of this pedal is, really.
I'm going to work on it more tomorrow afternoon. Going to see if I can clean up the path on the board from the lugs on the attack pot.
Any help?

The first thing I would suspect is the pot itself, judging by the rust.

If the schematic I'm looking at is right, the pots are just 500k variable resistors. Have you stuck a meter on the pot to see if the resistance changes as you turn it?

Thanks. Yeah there's quite a bit of corrosion so that pot being bad is a fair assessment.
I haven't though. I own a $40 craftsman that seems to be good, I just never was 100% educated on using them.
I assume i just put the probes on the 1st and 2nd lugs, just not sure which setting to use. Any pointers?

Most multimeters have several settings for measuring current (ammeter), measuring DC or AC voltage (voltmeter), or measuring resistance (ohm-meter). They also usually have a diode symbol for checking the "direction" of diodes, and might also have a continuity setting to check for shorts. The resistance settings will have differnt ranges to scale the meter to different expected values: The label shows the maximum resistance that can be measured: E.g. mine has settings for 200 (up to 200 ohms), 2000 (up to 2000 ohms or 2k), 20k, 200k amd 2000k (2M). If you want to check a 500k pot, set it to the appropriate range (probably 2000k), place the probes on the centre and outer lug and check the resistance moves from around 500(k) down to zero as you rotate the pot shaft.

Thanks. ill give it a test and be back to this thread later

Ok, I am definitely getting a reading from the Attack pot as I turn it. I'm using a Craftsman autoranging multimeter.
Thanks

I can post a pic of the other side of the circuit board if needed. Thanks.

Here it is, let me know if anyone sees anything.
I have been working on this thing for hours. Tried a new 500K pot, nothing happens.
Reflowed a whole bunch of solder joints and i'm at a loss.
The tropical fish looking capacitor looks like it's been though a war. Maybe that could be it.
Testing that is one thing i haven't done yet.

Well, if i'm tracing correct, that fish cap connects to pin 10 of the 4069 and also the attack pot so yes it certainly is a bit suspect.

Thanks Scruff. I will use heat sinks to remove it before testing it. Lets hope that's the one, though i doubt I can find a NOS part.

solewheelin wrote:Thanks Scruff. I will use heat sinks to remove it before testing it. Lets hope that's the one, though i doubt I can find a NOS part.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1598

Hey! So I ThanK YoU, Scruffie. Long overdue update, I fixed the pedal a few weeks ago and it sounds great.
After an exchange, Small bear sent me the right thing. Great customer service there.
Been trying to get my troubleshooting down forever and I definitely learnt some shit. Really appreciate the hand.

I meant to mention that it was indeed that tropical fish cap. Pedal plays beautifully now.