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Got my Bogner Duende 1X12 15W since September 2009.
I never replace a tube in it. Do you think I should bring it to a tech?
How to know if they degraded too much since I can't compare to a new amp.

Here's the config:
V1: Input tube both channels a and b, 12ax7
V2: 2nd stage for Channel b and Reverb Return, 12ax7
V3: 3rd stage for Channel a and b, 12ax7
V4: FX Loop, Send and Return, 12ax7
V5: Phase Inverter, 12ax7
V6: Power Tube, 6V6 (6L6 30W)
V7: Power Tube, 6V6 (6L6 30W)
V8: Rectifier, 5Y3 (12W) or 5AR4 (15W/30W)

V1 to V2: TAD 12AX7-C (the dealer put those in due to microphonic I had with the original tube)
V3 to V5: Sovtek 12AX7LPS
V6 to V7: ARS 6V6GT (it’s written Tesla/JJ on one of them)
V8: ARS 5AR4/GZ34

If I replace them, I'm thinking of JJ for the 6V6GT, ARS is good at the 5AR4 and maybe Tung-Sol for the 12AX7... what you think?

If it still sounds good, the tubes are fine. There are amazing sounding Fender amps out there that are 50+ years old and still have their original tubes.

Yea, you'll know when stuff starts to go. I went literally years on tubes even when riding them hard for a long time, the only ones I ever made go boom were 6V6s biased really really, really hot (which was how I liked them in old BF/SF Champs).

Only reason to swap I could see is if you don't have a backup set of tubes already (take the known still ok ones, stash in the event of failure or problems).

Are any of the power tubes' filaments glowing noticeably dimmer than the others?
Pre-amp tubes tend to last much longer than power tubes...if your sound becomes thin or sporatically crackly it's time to try changing them, starting with v1.
That's the one to usually have the most dramatic impact when rolling tubes through an amp. Make some recordings to compare before/after, leave your knobs set the same.
A good rectifier can outlast the amp, even you...especially if you use the amp behind a voltage regulator.

And the tubes made 50 years ago generally last longer than recent, modern production glass.
Much higher rate of failure with the new ones, but that doesn't mean they're all crap.

No noise or anything...
It's probably just one of these days where everything seeme to suck.
And also the fact that I'm still not sure I like the Tele.

sylnau wrote:... And also the fact that I'm still not sure I like the Tele.

OK, what don't you like about the Tele?

Chankgeez wrote:

sylnau wrote:... And also the fact that I'm still not sure I like the Tele.

OK, what don't you like about the Tele?

Bridge sound bright and thin... neck sound woody.
Lack of punch in the sound compared to other guitars I had.

But like I said... maybe it's just one of these days...

I hope so.

The only thing that may have degraded is the rectifier and the power tubes. All other should be still fine.
Trying another rectifier could be interesting.
A 5R4WGB could be cool. You should find them on ebay.
And get some grey glass NOS 6V6GT. Worth it.

or go solid state rectifier and forget about it. I had it eplaind to me like this. The rectifier tube is acting like a couple of diodes, at the time the classic much loved circuited were created, using vacuum tubes as diodes was the standard. as components improved, it became possible to use 2 small durable cheap diodes to perform the same function. open up a solid state tube replacement and that is what you see. a couple of diodes. cheap, simple and durable.

if you dig the solid state rectifier sound - i don't...

Would changing the 12AX7 for Tung-Sol do a big difference (just for experimentation)?

^
Trial & error. Try it. That's the only way to really know.
All electronics (including tubes and amps) are not created equal, all users (and their ears) are not created equal.

Yeah. It's all gonna come down to trial and error. I did some tube swapping in this amp that I just built, swapped in a few different 12ax7's and didn't honestly hear much of a difference so I just left it be. Not to say that your amp might do the same, but tube swapping is always fun to try at least!

And about the tele, is there a way to have the bridge pickup less bright with more punch?
I changed them to Lollar Special T especially to have a bigger sound, but I'm still unhappy.