ilovefuzz.com

So I bought this broken FZ-1A and I got it for a pretty decent price so I figured even if it's totally fucked it isn't that bad of a loss but I was hoping someone here might have a diagnosis for the problem. I'm handy with a soldering iron and have built a few "paint by numbers" pedals but I have no idea how to tell if something is wrong. The footswitch seems like it might be a problem but I'll let you guys tell me. It's one of those holy grail pedals that I've had numerous clones of that I always wanted to try an original type dealios. Thanks dudes.

Pics:

You should talk to Ian at Ghost Effects. He just fixed up Kosta's and he may have some good advice for you.

those battery contacts look ultra suspect

Details would help.
Does it power on at all? Does it pass signal when bypassed/not? Does it just not sound right?...

Jero wrote:Details would help.
Does it power on at all? Does it pass signal when bypassed/not? Does it just not sound right?...

Yeah, I actually haven't gotten it in the mail yet. so I may have started this thread a little too soon but I was hoping it would be something simple and obvious because I'm really stoked to try it out. I'll post those deets when I get it.

Kosta's FZ-1a which I repaired had (amongst other stuff that isn't relevant to yours) faulty electrolytic capacitors, the black ones in your picture.
to check this you can temporarily place 2 replacement electrolytics on top of the originals (1uf-10uf to check, you need 1uf if you are going to replace them as per the original).
just clip them on or wrap their legs round the ones in circuit, just to check if it works with them.
its a common problem as the electrolytics fail after 10 years or so.
i clipped kosta's out leaving a bit of original leg and soldered the new ones to the leftover legs, quite fiddly!
some people just leave the temp caps in unsoldered to keep the unit 'original'.

if the switch is faulty then thats another story!

ghost_effects wrote:Kosta's FZ-1a which I repaired had (amongst other stuff that isn't relevant to yours) faulty electrolytic capacitors, the black ones in your picture.
to check this you can temporarily place 2 replacement electrolytics on top of the originals (1uf-10uf to check, you need 1uf if you are going to replace them as per the original).
just clip them on or wrap their legs round the ones in circuit, just to check if it works with them.
its a common problem as the electrolytics fail after 10 years or so.
i clipped kosta's out leaving a bit of original leg and soldered the new ones to the leftover legs, quite fiddly!
some people just leave the temp caps in unsoldered to keep the unit 'original'.

if the switch is faulty then thats another story!

Oh ok cool, I will just solder them to the legs of the old ones. I'd rather that because of the other components soldered with those caps and that might lead to trouble for me

The only thing I don't understand is what you mean about temporarily placing 2 on top of the originals. Is that just to find out if I need 1uf or 10uf? or do I surely need a 1uf and a 10uf electrolytic capacitor?

Thanks again, Ian. I really appreciate it. and everyone else aswell.

i just meant that if the switch is bypassing ok and the circuit isn't working then you might want to check if the 2 black electrolytics are broke.
the originals are 1uf but any value will do for a quick test, put them in the circuit temporarily so the new caps are in contact with the circuit where they are meant to go, you can clip them in with crocodile clips or bodge their leads under the old caps leads, make sure the caps are orientated the right way. You don't need to take the original caps out to do this.
if the circuit springs into life then you've found the problem!

Oh alright gotcha. Thanks.

good luck and let us know how you get on!

Will do! I'll update the thread as I go. It's still in the mail though.

Would 10uf 250v Axial electrolytic capacitors do the job for testing? because I have some of those for some reason.

So I got it today and the pedal doesn't bypass but when I switch it from off to on the white noise gets noisi(fuzzy)er. Still think it's electrolytic?

Helter wrote:So I got it today and the pedal doesn't bypass but when I switch it from off to on the white noise gets noisi(fuzzy)er. Still think it's electrolytic?

if it doesn't bypass then there could be a problem with the switch or even the input/output jack/socket
when you switch it on can you play guitar and get a fuzz sound? make sure the attack control is turned up fully. Kosta's wasn't such a strong sound on lower attack settings.