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bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:59 am
by ryan summit
graphite saddles?
rollers?
with or without trems?
if you upgraded your junk down there
and it did or didn't work
tell us about it
im not gonna go through my whole breakage issue again
but i gotta upgrade before i file my stuff in half
$11 roller on ebay?
yay or nay
guide me oh wise ones
heavy string content encouraged
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:07 pm
by skullservant
I just put some graphite-lined string saver saddles on my Obstructures. The old saddles were just shot, and I like steel saddles, so I got the brushed steel. I've never really had an issue with string breakage before. What are you tuning to Ryan? Maybe it is an issue of adjusting the hight of your saddle to reduce pressure but still keep intunation?
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:24 pm
by ryan summit
d standard
i got it as low as possible
without it buzzin uncontrolably
damn
i didnt wanna turn this into another
rs strinbreak thread
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:40 pm
by skullservant
What kind of bridge are you rocking? Might give a better idea of what you're working with!
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 10:23 am
by kaeth
I have a GFS roller bridge, and a Fender LSR roller nut on my baritone (12-65 I think?). Using the trem kills the sustain quite a bit, but it stays in tune forever. Shallow break angle probably has a lot to do with it though. No problems with strings popping out or breaking for me.
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:42 am
by dubkitty
in my experience roller bridges tend to dissipate the string vibration no matter how tightly you screw down the various parts, and thus to fuck up the tone and/or sustain. i've never used graphite saddles.
i used to break lower strings on guitar like a motherfucker. there are a couple of reasons i don't so much now. i went from preposterously heavy mandolin picks to Fender Heavys and lightened up my attack some. but i think what helped the most was learning how to fix string slots on the bridge to get rid of burrs and sharp edges. if i've got a problematic saddle, i go over the saddle slot and its edges with 1200-1600 grit sandpaper to get rid of any burrs, nicks, and other imperfections and this generally does the trick. they sell sanding cord--string impregnated with grit--at StewMac if you want to get all professional about it, but a folded piece of sandpaper works for me.
Re: bridges and saddles/ graphite and rollers
Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:46 pm
by ryan summit
mighty mite roller bridge came in
the quality is better than the stock tuneomatic
it looks like its gonna work
cause when i tuned up
it didnt put a kink at the saddles
i ordered a graph teck nut
but realized i ordered the wrong one
was able to stop before ship
havent ordered a new one yet
found this tip in my searching
using crazy glue and baking powder
to build up material in over filed slots
i guess they do it when restoring old shit
as not to remove and replace
some ancient endagered species penis bone nut
whelp it worked
im sans buzz
unless i really wang out the bottom
but when im really pullin hard
i want some buzz anyway
(thats what david carradine said)
so yeah
mighty mite looks like a good $26 investment
ill let you know about the nut