ilovefuzz.com

Has anybody built this? It says verified on the picture, but that is literally all I can find out about this layout: just the picture. It even says beavis on it, but I can't find it anywhere on his site.

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main. ... alNumber=7

I've not built the vero of it, but I DO have an extra PT2399 laying around... Hmmmmm

PS all the values would be on the Madbean site

Yeah, I have all the parts laying around. I was gonna throw it together for a quick project for school. BUT TIME IS PRECIOUS. And I don't want to build something that ain't gonna work.

You could trace the PCB on the madbean PCB and see where the traces go. They should line up exactly I would think. That way you could vero it in no time!

I may just do that. Thanks, Skully.

No problem duder

One mo' quick question: the connection points/nodes for VR1's lug 2 and 3 (between the diode and output) is kinda redundant, yeah?


I could just use a jumper from 2 to 3 then have a wire from lug 3 to that point in between the diode and output?

Sorry if I'm not making sense.

That's a good question! I honestly have no clue

I kinda looked over that vero layout, and it appears legit compared to the schematic. Like, all the components are in the right place. I'll build it tomorrow, and post back this time tomorrow with my results.

Sounds good to me man!

Moustache_Bash wrote:One mo' quick question: the connection points/nodes for VR1's lug 2 and 3 (between the diode and output) is kinda redundant, yeah?


I could just use a jumper from 2 to 3 then have a wire from lug 3 to that point in between the diode and output?

Sorry if I'm not making sense.

Yes you can tie the wiper(2) and outer lug(3) of the frequency pot (VR1) together and just use one wire.

If you don't tie the 3&2 together, just make sure you do lug 1 & 2. 3&2 is a "safety."

LaoWiz wrote:If you don't tie the 3&2 together, just make sure you do lug 1 & 2. 3&2 is a "safety."

yes because when the wiper lifts off the track the pot will show the total resistance from 1 to 3 instead of an open circuit and pedal-no-worky. usually this happens momentarily during human interface if it happens at all. it sounds like clicks and pops when it happens.

I went ahead and built it, and it works fine. Are you saying I should solder 3 and 2 together (even though they essentially are, because of how they are soldered on the board) just in case the pot fails?