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Hey guys. So my brother and I are working on building an op amp muff kit from mammoth/guitarpcb.

We've got the board done (minus a resistor that they didn't give me) but now we're trying to wire it up and we're super confused. There aren't really any directions for this part that I'm aware of. There's some directions for wiring jacks and switches and stuff on the guitarpcb site but we don't get it.

Here are some pics of where we're at right now. The LED isn't hooked up neither is the dc jack. We seriously have no clue what to do.





sorry for the crappy pics. They're about as good as my iPhone can do. Hopefully you can see what you need. I'm pretty confident that this would not work at all. It probably seems pretty stupid to an experienced builder but we really have no idea how to wire this.

Any help is appreciated. If you see anything wrong please point it out. Just keep in mind that we know nothing about building pedals haha.

Thanks

Alright... so other than the resistor, all the wiring is done?

With true bypass switching, the jacks are wired directly to the switch, not the board. Then it goes from the switch to the board. Here's a page with wiring diagrams for the switches. Select the one you wanna use (Hint: Go with the input ground w/ LED.):

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/ind ... &Itemid=27

Too, the black wire from the battery snap would generally go to the 3rd lug of the input jack. That disconnects the battery when you unhook the pedal, so it doesn't drain when it's not being used. It doesn't look like your pedal has a power jack... which is weird.

Can you get a pic/scan/link of the instructions it came with?

yeah jacks always go to the stomp. if it didn't, you would not be able to bypass. at this point, the rest just depends on if it has a power jack or battery or both. if it has a battery it must have a stereo jack on the input. if it has both battery and power jack, you must use a 3 prong power jack and a stereo input jack.

Yea, the way it's soldered now, with jacks to the board, you'd get no truebypass. The pedal still might work however. Are there extra holes to run wires from the board to the switch? I've seen this done from time to time, but it's not likely.

yeah like on a buffered bypass pedal, everything goes to the board and the switch is only 2 wires.

Here's a link to the build plans. I hope it works.
http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF%20Files/BMP%20OP%20AMP.pdf

it has a power jack (not hooked up or pictured) and I would be cool with having no battery snap if that makes it easier. I hardly ever use batteries.

Ok here's a dumb question. What is the 3rd lug on the switch? Does it work the same if you rotate it 180 degrees or is it supposed to be oriented a certain way?

Thanks for the help guys I'm gonna check out that GGG link right now

if you hold the switch so the lugs are flat and horizontal, your poles are in columns. the middle lug of each column can make a connection up or down depending on the position of the switch. if you have a multi meter, you can test for continuity or resistance. should read 0 ohms (or some really low number) across any two lugs that make a connection. then when you flip the switch, you will see that they are no longer connected. hands on learning.

The tip of the jacks should get wired to jacks in/out. Go from effect in/out to the in/out board holes marked "T". The board holes marked "S" are for the sleeve of the jacks.

I was in a hurry and just gave this a quick look. I beleive it's correct but you may want to wait for someone else to confirm it before soldering.

MiddleEarthCrisis wrote:

^this will work. I do them differently but it all adds up to the same thing really. I actually do them freestyle. like you can put anything anywhere if it makes for shorter cleaner wiring.


here is one that is very similar to the middleearthcrisis layout except my LED is on the right side. you'll see the ground in my photo on the top right and bottom left of the switch. one for the LED and one for grounded input bypass. you can just run a loop of wire. I ran an extra wire for the clean ground dirty ground theory. but we dont need to get in to the finer points on your first build.

here's a screenshot I took of the layout thing

lol I wish they had some kindof diagram that shows exactly where the wires go from the board to the jacks, pots, and switch. That would be perfect for a foo like me.

wow they really made that board noob proof. it has the in and out labeled T and S (tip, sleeve). a little confusing at first. the S for sleeve on the pcb by the in and out is just a ground. ignore it. you already have a ground connection on the pcb that says GND. you can just run a black wire that connects all the grounds together. it doesnt have to be star grounded. you can have a ground wire that runs through the whole box and touches one ground on the PCB, a sleeve on each jack, the center negative of the power jack and the ground on the footswitch. the T in and T out stands for tip. but really it just goes to the switch, not the jacks.

I'm sorry man I'm so lost. As noob proof as that board may be I have no experience doing this whatsoever so it's all pretty confusing to me.

So if the tip part goes to the switch what goes to the tip?

Lol if someone makes me a noobalicious diagram I will be eternally gratefull and I'll be your best friend.

the tip of each jack goes to the switch. I'll make you a diagram later after dinner. I'm also easily distracted so cross your fingers.

thanks man *fingers crossed*

MiddleEarthCrisis wrote:The tip of the jacks should get wired to jacks in/out. Go from effect in/out to the in/out board holes marked "T". The board holes marked "S" are for the sleeve of the jacks.

I was in a hurry and just gave this a quick look. I beleive it's correct but you may want to wait for someone else to confirm it before soldering.

Did you read what I wrote above the diagram?
Are you still confused?