Re: Resources for a strat type bridge setup?
Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:48 pm
Buzz close to the nut is either a low nut or very likely a neck with too much relief.
Basics on bridge adjustment: 1) a bridge-locking setting is kind of an abnormality on strat-type trem bridges. If losing a string made the other strings go sharp, it was set up floating. If you want no float if the trem isn't in use, tighten the trem springs in the cavity on the back of the guitar until the back of the trem sits firmly against the body. (Some people think the bridges tend to sound better floating, but I wouldn't mess with it in this case.) 2) Bridge height is controlled by the grub screws on either side of the string saddles. Keep in mind that you want the strings to generally go with the curve of the fretboard, especially with a vintage 7 1/4" fretboard radius. 3) intonation is tweaked with the phillips screws going through the springs to the string saddles. Adjust intonation last.
Hope that gets you going.
Basics on bridge adjustment: 1) a bridge-locking setting is kind of an abnormality on strat-type trem bridges. If losing a string made the other strings go sharp, it was set up floating. If you want no float if the trem isn't in use, tighten the trem springs in the cavity on the back of the guitar until the back of the trem sits firmly against the body. (Some people think the bridges tend to sound better floating, but I wouldn't mess with it in this case.) 2) Bridge height is controlled by the grub screws on either side of the string saddles. Keep in mind that you want the strings to generally go with the curve of the fretboard, especially with a vintage 7 1/4" fretboard radius. 3) intonation is tweaked with the phillips screws going through the springs to the string saddles. Adjust intonation last.
Hope that gets you going.