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Is there anyway to make my own without access to a laser printer or a photocopier?

Sharpie Markers can be used to make crude PCBs, not the greatest way to do it though.

Or you can buy them.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/Pho ... Boards.htm

You need an inkjet printer, and a light source. And, obvs, the chemicals.


You can get laser printers pretty cheap these days, though.

My HP laser printer was only about $120. DO NO, I repeat, DO NOT buy a Brother laser printer for making PCBs. The toner will not transfer properly.

McSpunckle wrote:
You can get laser printers pretty cheap these days, though.

If you think you're gonna make more than 3 or 4 designs, then this. I got mine new for $50 (samsung ml2240). And the half-full toner cart that came with it is still going strong two years later.

nbabmf wrote:My HP laser printer was only about $120. DO NO, I repeat, DO NOT buy a Brother laser printer for making PCBs. The toner will not transfer properly.

It will work, but it takes a lot more effort. I know because I have one.

But yeah, the toner is kinda weird. It's thin and slightly porous, which makes it not idea for making PCBs. I get by with mine, but something else would definitely be better.

nbabmf wrote:My HP laser printer was only about $120. DO NO, I repeat, DO NOT buy a Brother laser printer for making PCBs. The toner will not transfer properly.

I have a brother hl-2240 lazer printer that I got for $50. it works perfectly for me. I just use magazine paper for the transfer.

Yeah i've used a Brother aswell, worked fine with Inkjet Photo Paper.

I've read it doesn't work with Press N Peel Blue. Other materials are alright though?

Brother printers are cheap, but so are the smaller HP, Samsung, and Konica/Minolta lasers, too.

nbabmf wrote:I've read it doesn't work with Press N Peel Blue. Other materials are alright though?

Brother printers are cheap, but so are the smaller HP, Samsung, and Konica/Minolta lasers, too.

Maybe it is the material, i've never tried anything else so perhaps other printers are better, it did take a few goes when I did it, but it was my first time doing a reasonably complex toner transfer so...

It wasn't just cheap it was almost new and free from a friend, i'd consider picking up a laser printer on Free Cycle if I wanted another though (which now it's run out of toner almost I might get).

Im not really looking to start making a bunch of PCBs just a few, i dont think its worth it to go buy a printer at the moment. Any links to resources where they show u how to use the sharpies, id assume i just draw the circuit onto the copper? then proceed as i would if i was using the printer method?

nbabmf wrote:I've read it doesn't work with Press N Peel Blue. Other materials are alright though?

I find that a thicker magazine cover that's moderately bonded is best with Brother toner.

the Life Aquatic wrote: Any links to resources where they show u how to use the sharpies, id assume i just draw the circuit onto the copper? then proceed as i would if i was using the printer method?

Yeah, you merely draw the traces/pads on the copper. It's not bad for a simple circuit, but it's a nightmare for something with more than 10 or so components.

Once the resist (sharpie "ink") is on there, everything else is the same: etch!

when i first started building i tried to get away with not buying a printer, but after the first few times i realized the technique is what it is because it works best..... i built a few by drawing the design on with sharpie markers but found that they were harder to drill and a lot of times the etch liquid would eat through the sharpie paint anyway....

the toner (much like the sharpie ink) is simply a "cover" for the copper so that only exposed (uncovered) copper will be eaten off and the toner (sharpie) will repel the solution from eating away at the copper beneath.... so yes, once your draw the circuit on the copper you continue taking steps as if you have a good toner imprint on the copper board....

if you do the sharpie method, give yourself enough space around tracks so they don't bleed into one another and do multiple coats of sharpie marking to ensure the etching solution doesn't eat through it.... and have a good sharp utility knife to scrape off any mistakes or bleeds....

will this be your first circuit?? if so, then i would suggest finding a vero board layout and getting some good quality veroboard and trying it that way first....

no ive done a few circuits, all on pad per hole. ive got all of january off so i figured why not switch two of my pedals wiith PCBs since i planned on redoing the wiring for them since its very messy and keeps shorting

The trick with Sharpies is to lay down the first drawing/coat, and then wait about a minute and go over everything again. If you let it dry, you can actually do coats, ant that will really help keep the acid from breaking through.