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Does anyone have any idea?

My friend joe is an audiophile, and he hates the colour the buffer on his tuner adds.

he wants me to consolidate his pedal board (a tuner, clean boost and distortion) into one tiny box...

the pedals are a Boss tuner, Super Hrd-On and his Tubescreamer. It's vintage.

it's gonna be fun, but i can't deal with boss layouts they drive me nuts.

If anyone can point me to the right info that'd be awesome <3

You take the Boss pedal, open it up, break it, put it in the bin, and have him Buy a Hardwire or Korg Tuner instead.

Or you buy one of these kits http://www.clicklesstruebypass.com/

Scruffie wrote:You take the Boss pedal, open it up, break it, put it in the bin, and have him Buy a Hardwire or Korg Tuner instead.

Or you buy one of these kits http://www.clicklesstruebypass.com/

Or you just use 3PDT Footswitch to archive the same. Afaik most/all newer Boss pedals have the same bypass mechanism/buffer, so you might be successful adapting one of the tutorials you find online for the tuner.

dune2k wrote:

Scruffie wrote:You take the Boss pedal, open it up, break it, put it in the bin, and have him Buy a Hardwire or Korg Tuner instead.

Or you buy one of these kits http://www.clicklesstruebypass.com/

Or you just use 3PDT Footswitch to archive the same. Afaik most/all newer Boss pedals have the same bypass mechanism/buffer, so you might be successful adapting one of the tutorials you find online for the tuner.

They don't sadly... although the information on this specific unit is probably documented and it is possible to rewire it for true bypass with a 3PDT but that would require finding the buffer and removing it which would be a pain and that option is alot simpler really, Relays are more stable than mechanical switches anyway.

But if you really wanna mess about with a 3PDT i'll have a look for the information... think i've seen it before.

all i would do is find the 'hot' wire from the input jack and then follow the wire to wherever it goes. there you have the circuit in and the input. then do the same to the output jack and you have all the necessary points to wire up a 3pdt for true bypass

Teej212 wrote:all i would do is find the 'hot' wire from the input jack and then follow the wire to wherever it goes. there you have the circuit in and the input. then do the same to the output jack and you have all the necessary points to wire up a 3pdt for true bypass

They use some kind of flip flop switching (like Ibanez pedals), so you have to do something about that too. Otherwise you'll have to switches to stomp on if you wanna use it. :D

dune2k wrote:

Teej212 wrote:all i would do is find the 'hot' wire from the input jack and then follow the wire to wherever it goes. there you have the circuit in and the input. then do the same to the output jack and you have all the necessary points to wire up a 3pdt for true bypass

They use some kind of flip flop switching (like Ibanez pedals), so you have to do something about that too. Otherwise you'll have to switches to stomp on if you wanna use it. :D

This man speaks the truth, I think I read about someone doing this to there pedal and they had to hit the switch several times to turn it on, just aint that simple, one thing you can do if you wanna mess about with the mechanics (and this is still removing the buffers etc.) is buy a tactile switch like this http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=33 add a millenium bypass circuit to keep it true bypass and have an LED & use an actuator like this to engage it http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=32 lotta work getting it in there though properly... so I still vote relay.

I designed the Click-Less™ True-Bypass system as a more reliable (and quieter) alternative to the "industry standard" 3PDT switch. Overwhelming response about the action of the switch and the silent operation of the system lead to the production of the Click-Less™ True-Bypass installation kit. The kit allows guys (and gals too) to quickly, and easily convert buffered bypass, non-true-bypass, and true-bypass pedals alike to a more reliable, quieter bypass system: the Click-Less™ True-Bypass system. One advantage the system offers for BOSS and Ibanez effects is that there is no drilling required, and the unit's stock switch can still be used.

The TU-2 is a little different than some of the other mono-phonic designs in that there is an additional BYPASS output. This output is still available for use when the TU-2 is on. This feature allows the option of true-bypass OR buffered bypass. The Click-Less™ system installs in about 30 minutes with some basic hand tools and a soldering iron.

One noteworthy caveat: if you elect to drill out the case and install a 3PDT switch to select between bypass and tuner mode, you will be faced with another decision: lock the TU-2 on at all times (which will draw a considerable amount of current) or install a second momentary contact switch to toggle the tuner circuit on when the bypass switch is engaged. The Click-Less™ system takes care all of this for you in one quick shot.

Here is an installation video made specifically for the BOSS TU-2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wB3GY3unq8

Kits are in stock and generally ship within 1 business day, if not same day.
If you are uncomfortable performing the installation yourself, you can send your pedal in for a factory install. Kits are $22, installation is $50 parts/labor. Prices do not include shipping.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or email me directly at: jack@jackdeville.com

EDIT: MORE INFO

Here is some documentation detailing Click-Less™ installation into generic/non-model-specific pedals.
Even if you elect not to use the Click-Less™ system, you will find the information regarding flip-flop defeat extremely useful.

http://jackdeville.com/manuals/click_le ... _guide.pdf
http://jackdeville.com/manuals/click-le ... _guide.pdf
http://jackdeville.com/manuals/click-le ... manual.pdf

The most common method I have seen for converting electronic switching pedals to true-bypass is fully removing the switching circuit. Not only is this more work (many components must be removed and jumpers must be installed) it is just not necessary. You can defeat the flip-flop by simply removing ONE RESISTOR. Page 3 of each respective manual details this procedure.

I hope you find this information relevant and useful.