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skullservant wrote:Just popped the Delta Pro 12a into my Verellen cab in anticipation of the Jet City head. Set a drone in B to 65hz and I'm breaking the speaker in now

sorry to throw it OT but, what did you use for setting the drone and for how long? Is that something that typically needs to be done with new speakers? don't they usually have burn in periods by the manufacturers? sorry, still new to amps/speakers.

I struck a chord and looped it on my bass, then looped the loop with my DL4 and dropped it half speed which brought out more lows, then put an EQ after everything with the 65hz maxed and everything else set to zero and let it go for about a half hour.

I only did it because when I installed it and started playing it sounded stiff as hell and I hated it. But after getting the speaker to move for a good half hour (even with a 5 watt head, with a speaker rated at 400w) it sounds A LOT better. Don't know if I actually did anything, but to my ears it doesn't sound as ice picky or stale

skullservant wrote:I struck a chord and looped it on my bass, then looped the loop with my DL4 and dropped it half speed which brought out more lows, then put an EQ after everything with the 65hz maxed and everything else set to zero and let it go for about a half hour.

I only did it because when I installed it and started playing it sounded stiff as hell and I hated it. But after getting the speaker to move for a good half hour (even with a 5 watt head, with a speaker rated at 400w) it sounds A LOT better. Don't know if I actually did anything, but to my ears it doesn't sound as ice picky or stale

Speakers do have a break in period, if you do it with your method it only takes an hour or two of droning to loosen up the cone. Playing normally it can take 4-6 hours.

skullservant wrote:I struck a chord and looped it on my bass, then looped the loop with my DL4 and dropped it half speed which brought out more lows, then put an EQ after everything with the 65hz maxed and everything else set to zero and let it go for about a half hour.

oh ok gotcha. that sounds like.. fun

skullservant wrote:I only did it because when I installed it and started playing it sounded stiff as hell and I hated it. But after getting the speaker to move for a good half hour (even with a 5 watt head, with a speaker rated at 400w) it sounds A LOT better. Don't know if I actually did anything, but to my ears it doesn't sound as ice picky or stale

that makes sense that it would need some time to shift and adjust to the cabinet and whatnot. Just never thought about it before.

I think when I get the Verellen I will do it again, since it will be higher powered and have the ability to move the cone a bit more

Skullservant: moving that paper in the name of power violence.

PAPERVIOLENCE

POWERVELLUM

ITS NEVER LEAVING THESE COLD HANDS EVER AGAIN. BAHHHHHH



Okay so I guess I should review it for you folks-

The first time I got to play the head was when I converted my Jazzmaster to a Baritone at AA's house. He was running it through a 6x12, as a MV amp by having the Master cranked and using the Gain as a volume control. It got LOUD AS SHIT with the gain on 2 this way, while still staying clean. It's got a bold clean tone to it, and the EQ is responsive. The Baritone Jazzmaster sounded great through it, and it took my pedalboard really, really well.

The second time I got to play through it was the last time I was over at AA's house- I played my Kramer through it with my pedalboard, through an Ear Candy 2x12. Again we used the MV trick, had the amp set on '2' and it was easily loud enough to overpower AA monitoring his synth part from across the room as we recorded. It handled bass as well as it did guitar, was easy to dial in, and loud as shit once again.

I got it home last night and hooked it up through the Verellen cab. I used the MV trick. Seeing as my mom and stepdad were downstairs, I didn't want to crank it, so I left it around '1' with the MV dimed and it was a semi-appropriate level. I'm a little surprised that I wasn't told it was too loud at that volume because I felt a little conscious about it. I didn't get to full on crank it last night, but I'm hoping to tonight.

It's clean as shit, and stays clean as shit for the most part. I did lower the MV and cranked the gain last night and it got hairy, which was cool to see, just so that I know if I WANTED a overdriven tone I could get it. I'm not one to really use amp gain/saturation in my music anyways, so it works out either way. I'd been used to EL84's because of my Valve Junior, so this wasn't much of a transition for me other than gaining a lot more headroom, the ability to dial in volume a lot better, and a 3 band EQ, all of which now seem like luxuries.

All in all I'm really stoked about it. I think I could totally gig with it, and I plan to (if I ever make it out of the house).

Awesome to hear its working out for you!!!!! Oh and its called the Nmv trick (non-master volume)

SO EXCITED SAUCE

OH, I also took a peak inside at the guts. The craft inside is AWESOME from Soldano, like holy shit great. Ben's Mod DOES look like he just took most of the preamp gain out of the circuit, it's a jumper to the MV knob and a resistor jumping V1

skullservant wrote:SO EXCITED SAUCE

OH, I also took a peak inside at the guts. The craft inside is AWESOME from Soldano, like holy shit great. Ben's Mod DOES look like he just took most of the preamp gain out of the circuit, it's a jumper to the MV knob and a resistor jumping V1

If you got gut picks, I'm curious to see them. HCAF has a JCA-20 modder thread that is almost completely uninterested in clean mods, but I'd rather have an easy path to less dirt than more with that amp.

I DO indeed have a picture of the mod-

Judging from the rest of the caps on the inside of the amp, the red one is new, along with the carbon comp (obviously). Seriously looks like just that cap, the wire, and the resistor along with the faceplate for the mod!

Woah, that looks dirt simple to do. No way is that it!

It's really the only thing I could find that looked like it was a mod believe it or not! I could be totally wrong, but it looked like the only thing that was messed with. I guess the rest of the money goes into the new faceplate and return shipping? Either way, it makes the head so pedal friendly