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Tom Dalton wrote:True, true!
I haven't familiarized myself with the exact differences, only the basic specs of operation / power output.

I encourage people to experiment / socket! And report here!

All I know for sure is, if you want to get as close to the JRC as possible, you want the N-1...I've definitely noticed the differences compared with N-3! You gonna get some fucked up oscillation.

I don't think anyone knows the exact difference to be honest! Just one of those things, that shouldn't really happen but does.

I'd be interested to know the difference from reports too, just to get an idea of how the chips react in different circuits to maybe get a better understanding of why.

Anyway.. Carry On

smile_man wrote:I'm definitely considering buying one of these kits, but I have a few questions.

1.) Does the $64 kit come with EVERYTHING I need to build the Flake?

2.) IS the Snowflake more like the Fingerprint? Or the Snowdrift?

and

3.) Does the second footswitch only do the gain bypass thing?

1) Yes, the $64 kit comes with -everything- you need to build the Snowflake! The enclosure is undrilled.

2) Snowflake = Fingerprint

3) The second footswitch only does the gain bypass thing, which is what the second mode on the Fingerprint did. The gain control works along with the texture control (which activates the strange robot and octave tones). So it can take you from low gain to high gain, and also can take you to crazier robot tones (with the Texture control up).

So Tommy D when can we expect more kits?

where do you ground the ground to?

this is very frustrating. i don't understand these diagrams, one led lights up, the other doesn't

i really dont understand bypass switching.

does it matter if the footswitches are placed so the the longer side is horizontal?>

no one is going to help me.

no the lugs have to be

- - -
- - -
- - -

not

I I I
I I I
I I I

as for the grounds, its the negative end of the battery. then connect the sleeves of the jack to ground. that help?

Teej212 wrote:
as for the grounds, its the negative end of the battery. then connect the sleeves of the jack to ground. that help?

im using a power supply, no battery.



which one (jack I have is far right) do I put the ins/outs to and which is ground?

also, which part of a 3pdt is the return?

thanks.

also, if anyone (tom) has gutshots of a finished SF i would love to see them.

same thing goes- negative to ground which is attached to most central lug of the jacks you got there

just ordered my pcb!
then i made the mistake of looking at the finished in stock snowflakes.
being broke sucks dammit

anyone know what op amps/trannys used?

and would a 1590b enclosure work?

smile_man wrote:

Teej212 wrote:
as for the grounds, its the negative end of the battery. then connect the sleeves of the jack to ground. that help?

im using a power supply, no battery.



which one (jack I have is far right) do I put the ins/outs to and which is ground?

also, which part of a 3pdt is the return?

thanks.

don't know if this helps..
i know its 2 switches but the jack lay out might be of some help
http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

Thanks, I've gotten signal to flow through when bypassed.

But now I don't think any power is going to the circuit, and only one led lights up, when I wire it like it says nothing happens.

smile_man wrote:Thanks, I've gotten signal to flow through when bypassed.

But now I don't think any power is going to the circuit, and only one led lights up, when I wire it like it says nothing happens.

i'd try bypassing all the wiring and switches by using alligator clips to power directly to the board. maybe see if the problem lies on the board-like a reversed cap or something. i'm sure the problem will be solved once yuo have a decent gut shot.

yay! iv'e got it to the point where i can play through it, it doesn't seem to work right when the texture point is connected though.

just realized i have the level and texture pots mixed up.