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I got my FZ-2 PCB sorted out finally! The laser was having issues for marking the enclosure but everything does fit in a 125b! I based the DPDT switching off a switch I had in my parts box and sadly all the PCB mount ones I found cheaply switch differently so a little rework was needed. Oh well!

Gonna make a new enclosure next week that'll be a little prettier then I'll show that off.

Boxed up 2 more, a Meathead (M-13) Dark on a Fuzzdog PCB and a Rounding Error on a MAE PCB that has been lying around for a while. The switch on that one is for different input caps.

Latest addition to the herd, Wally. Clone of the Spaceman Effects Apollo VII. Complete with NOS Northern Electric diodes for the clipping stage. The LED's are crunchy, but the diodes are magical. Pure harmonic bliss.

Finally finished building and programming this bastard. I am very pleased with how the LEDs turned out. I'll try to film some clips of it tomorrow.

Here's a PedalPCB Parentheses Mini, kinda like a EQD Life Pedal V2 without the expression control.

I used 3 tantalums (C13-15) and matched D9Ks for the octave, as in the big one I made.
And because I can't handle two foot switches on a 125B, I opted for a wider encloure, resulting in more wiring.
So yeah, it's not super tidy in there ....

Looks fine dude! Have you ever A/B matched vs non matched sets in green ringer? I read all Mark Hammers thoughts and mods on it at DIYSB when I built another one a few months ago, and tried some of those. I ended up using a pair of 5187's that were pretty close. I tried BAT48s which are quite popular in diode ring stuff, 41s, and a host of Ge.. The 5187s did sound the best to me.

Anyway nice build

BetterOffShred wrote:Looks fine dude! Have you ever A/B matched vs non matched sets in green ringer? I read all Mark Hammers thoughts and mods on it at DIYSB when I built another one a few months ago, and tried some of those. I ended up using a pair of 5187's that were pretty close. I tried BAT48s which are quite popular in diode ring stuff, 41s, and a host of Ge.. The 5187s did sound the best to me.

Anyway nice build

Thanks man! And no, I didn't compare matched vs non-matched diodes, or any other type. They are in sockets though, so I might do some diode rolling one day ...

Finally boxed the proto board of the Diddy, Son of Kong clone. Tons of boost, potent EQ, and DI out as well. Can turn just about any amp into a creamy dream.

After a long, unproductive winter I managed to box up one of the 10 or so circuits I have lying around. A simple DOD FX55 clone with an additional germanium/BAT46 output clipping option for a more ragged and brighter sound.

Looking good, that FX55.

Here's something Dunwich designed: a Bass Boost/OD that doubles as an (power) amp. I've seen a few of them in the wild, but never got around to order one from the master himself before he hung up the soldering iron. Fortunately, Nick was kind enough to hook me up with a PCB, what a great guy!

The bass boost is killer and if used as an amp, it sounds surprisingly good with my old Italian 2x12" from the 70ies that I use at home.

Haven't posted on here in a while but this build seemed apt!

This one is a DBA Fuzz War, v1. It’s the 7 transistor version and one I’ve always been curious about. I’ve built a couple of the Big Muff based newer ones but always wanted to have a go with one of these.

Took a bit of fine tuning to get the best out of it but really happy with the end result, it’s brutal!

Etched with NaOH and painted then treated to a coat of glitter spray because space!









I did a video too if you’re curious about the noise it makes!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Az7fB5dV0tE&t=11s

Some really sweet builds there, guys! Never heard of that Dunwich thing, seems very useful. Fuzz War sounds creamy af.

I built the best Muff I've tried so far, a straight clone of the Black Arts LSTR. The mid scoop is what makes it, and the MPSA12s I guess, never came across another circuit that uses those.

The finish was a series of mistakes, from an ugly yellow with a terrible green paint that ate through it, to a white re-coat that crinkled badly.. sand off again and then cover with an eye-molesting green wash. It will do.

Now that I got the workshop all setup again in the basement, I built up a small ~20W Stereo Amp with integrated Headphone Amp for my Computer Desk:


It is based on two TDA7391 class AB amplifier chips supplied by a 12VDC 3A wall wart, I had to put in quite a bit of supply filtering to get the noise down to a reasonable level... those generic off-the-shelf power supplies produce quite an amount of noise in the audible range, if amplified enough. For the next time I'd slap a 9V LDO in front of each amplifiert IC to get a cleaner supply.

The headphone amp is a LM4880 with dedicated 5V linear regulator, so noise wasn't an issue there.

Controls are On/Off switch with Power Led, Speaker Volume with Clipping indicator Led and Headphone Volume with Headphone out.

Nice! Awesome build. I need to make something like that

Here's my Big Ear, a Spaceman WOW Signal, PCB from the amazing guys at Deadend FX.

It's up and running, sounding great, but I still need to do some fine tuning.

Q4 and Q5 aren't matched, I just had one of each left and none of them is within the recommended hFe specs (one too low, the other too high). I ordered more of those to see, if I could get a smoother gain.

Then, I need to try other stuff in C8 and R25. Currently, there a 2n poly in C8 and the stock 16k in R25. Thing is, on the more extreme depth setting of the switch, I get a nice stutter effect, when turning up the Depth knob until the signal cuts out completely. That's cool, but it happens to soon on the dial, so that the last third of the turn does nothing. I'm not too sure about all this yet, but I'll see what happens ...

Q6 seems to be fine, I have 5.22v on E. (It's a MP14B though, as my P416As were a bit low on hFe, in the 30ies IIRC, might still swap that too).

Anyway, here it is.