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Whilst a number of people are happy with my black finish/white lettering look, I'm continuing to look for ways of making my builds look a bit more fancy

This my latest attempt - some decoupage paper I found on ebay stuck on top of a layer of white primer and another quick layer of satin clear to seal it.

I've been using a paint pen and rubber stamp for the lettering but I'd like to find a method which transfers a little more paint so I'm not quite there yet.

Nevertheless I'm pretty pleased with the result

I decided I didn't like the white (or that the "BIG BROTHER" was wonky) so I removed most of the white and replaced it with black, which I like a little better.

A tacky take on point to point.

Didn't look too bad after basic wiring.
Then I improvised a bit .... It has a D311 diode and a KC507 Transistor.
Sounds great!

love that enclosure art

oCiFuzz. It's a Fuzz-E-Cat with some components swapped out to open it up a little bit more (the original is quite compressed). Thicccccc acryllic paint with a clear resin coat to make it extra shiny and gooey. Oh, and top-mounted jacks, because it should have that.

candy-coated schweetness!

Very shagadelic, UC!

UglyCasanova wrote:oCiFuzz. It's a Fuzz-E-Cat with some components swapped out to open it up a little bit more (the original is quite compressed). Thicccccc acryllic paint with a clear resin coat to make it extra shiny and gooey. Oh, and top-mounted jacks, because it should have that.

Dude, I LOVE this. So, so cool man. Good job! Love the creativity.

Thanks, buds! Using that much paint for a finish made it really difficult to work with, especially since I added a few drops of silicone to the paint in order to make the cells. Even though the paint dried, it was still a little soft to the touch (I could make indentations with my fingernail), so even with the resin finish I am not sure if it will have the same durability as my normal resin finishes. It's basically hard metal > fairly soft paint > layer of hard plastic. So, if one were to apply enough pressure to the finish, I can imagine the paint giving way and leaving an air pocket, unless the resin seals it so that there's a vacuum. So far, normal use seems to work fine. Time will tell..

Finally finished a project I've been meaning to do for years, and reshoused the head from a monster 4x10 bass combo into its own enclosure.



It's definitely not perfect but I got to have fun playing with new tools so I'm good with it.

Deadend FX GOLLUM (Spaceman Rumblefuzz), pretty cool fuzz that slays on bass!

I used to have the Broughton version and think that the added boost is very nice and gives the fuzz more bloom and doom.

fuzzonaut wrote:Deadend FX GOLLUM (Spaceman Rumblefuzz), pretty cool fuzz that slays on bass!

I used to have the Broughton version and think that the added boost is very nice and gives the fuzz more bloom and doom.

P1030010.jpg

P1030018.jpg

Nice!! Mind if we post these pics at the shop?

Just out of curiousity, what transistors did you use in your build? How does it compare to the Broughton version? Any recommendations for board improvement?

digi2t wrote:

fuzzonaut wrote:Deadend FX GOLLUM (Spaceman Rumblefuzz), pretty cool fuzz that slays on bass!

I used to have the Broughton version and think that the added boost is very nice and gives the fuzz more bloom and doom.

P1030010.jpg

P1030018.jpg

Nice!! Mind if we post these pics at the shop?

Just out of curiousity, what transistors did you use in your build? How does it compare to the Broughton version? Any recommendations for board improvement?

Thanks and sure, you can post the pics at the shop. Can you grab them from here or do you want me to send them by email?

As for the transistors: I was just going through what I had at hand, shooting for your hFe recommendations.
Q2 is a 2N2222A I think and, uhm, I forgot what Q1 is, BC5xxC something? Edit: BC550C. Q3 is a J201.

The board is fine, the only thing that was a bit tricky to handle was the placement of R11, as that resistor might need to be adjusted depending on Q3.
R11 sits right between those rather big caps, so it's difficult to get there once C1 and C8 are soldered in. Maybe move it to the left below the trimpot?

I sold the Broughton a while ago, but from memory, I'd say it sounds pretty much the same, but with the Broughton, you were basically forced to more or less dime the Fuzz control, otherwise it wasn't loud enough. I wished I could turn that up more ... Now, with the Gollum, I can do exactly that, what gives me also more flexibility regarding the use of the other two knobs.
In short: it's like a Broughton on steroids.

Thanks, I can get the pics right from here.

OK, I noticed the R11 squeeze out, but to be honest, I didn't have a problem with that...



I used a 100uF/25V, 6x11mm format. You could even use a 16V unit, which comes in a 5x11mm package. If you use a Panasonic-like metalized film cap for C8, that leaves enough room for the resistor. But, using a box cap for C8 does put the squeeze on R11 for sure. I'll talk to Phil about shifting R11 to the left. That's a fair call.

Thanks for the input. Glad to hear that it rocks. I pulled mine out this morning and noodled with it before hitting the road to work. Yeah... it rocks solid.

digi2t wrote: OK, I noticed the R11 squeeze out, but to be honest, I didn't have a problem with that...

Yeah, I agree, it's not really a problem, more about convenience.

And I can add, that I really like your board layouts in general, as you're not trying to squeeze everything into the smallest possible enclosure, like a lot of 125B fetishists do.

On a unrelated note: a Deadend FX take on Craig Andertons Quadrafuzz (9V) would be cool ....