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adamajah wrote:

frodog wrote:Thanks, appreciate it! I can't take any credit for the name (or circuit), that's all Ian Sherwen, it is indeed a great and fitting one.

I meant the name of the finish
"Citadel Orc Flesh and Armour wash" ... unless those are the names of the paints or something. Regardless... cool stuff !

Ahaaa, yeah those are actually the official Citadel Colour names They're '90s Warhammer miniature paints left over from all the orcs and elves I never finished.

frodog wrote:

adamajah wrote:

frodog wrote:Thanks, appreciate it! I can't take any credit for the name (or circuit), that's all Ian Sherwen, it is indeed a great and fitting one.

I meant the name of the finish
"Citadel Orc Flesh and Armour wash" ... unless those are the names of the paints or something. Regardless... cool stuff !

Ahaaa, yeah those are actually the official Citadel Colour names They're '90s Warhammer miniature paints left over from all the orcs and elves I never finished.

Thanks Frodog.

Here's another Deadend PCB, the Foxx Select-a-Fuzz. 5-way rotary for cap selection to give it different types of Doom.

fuzzonaut wrote:Thanks Frodog.

Here's another Deadend PCB, the Foxx Select-a-Fuzz. 5-way rotary for cap selection to give it different types of Doom.

P1020073.jpg

P1020082.jpg

How does that one sound? Going to make another order with them once the Double Sub is released. You see that one? Seems incredible.

LaoWiz wrote:

fuzzonaut wrote:Thanks Frodog.

Here's another Deadend PCB, the Foxx Select-a-Fuzz. 5-way rotary for cap selection to give it different types of Doom.

P1020073.jpg

P1020082.jpg

How does that one sound? Going to make another order with them once the Double Sub is released. You see that one? Seems incredible.

Sounds great, the cap shifting adds a nice notch each time. And yeah, the Double Sub is crazy, I must try that.

fuzzonaut wrote:Thanks Frodog.

Here's another Deadend PCB, the Foxx Select-a-Fuzz. 5-way rotary for cap selection to give it different types of Doom.

P1020073.jpg

P1020082.jpg

Nicely done, it's great to see some of our pcbs out in the wild.

I'm chewing over the Double sub release, it was a commission for a guy in the UK to replace a bunch of stuff on his pedal board. There are a few quirks with it like the wet / dry mix is backwards on both effects and an issue with the dry signal being present in bypass when the mixed output is used and only one of the effects are engaged.

This is how the guy asked for it and he is happy, whether or not it works for anyone else is up for debate.

Thanks to Steve D., we finally got a handle on the Sputnik I. I thought for sure that this would be a carbon copy tone-wise, but I was wrong. It definitely has it's own character, and holds it's own.







Went all Russian with the semis, same set as what I used in the Laika, but with a D18 diode. The Drift switch moved to a footswitch, just because it's more convenient that way.

There's a cap between scan and signal, 180n on the sputnik 1.. and I think it's 18n on the sputnik 2 schematic.. Steve double checked the value on his 1 when I brought this up, was curious if anyone had pics of a 2 to see if that ap cap is actually 18n?

BetterOffShred wrote:There's a cap between scan and signal, 180n on the sputnik 1.. and I think it's 18n on the sputnik 2 schematic.. Steve double checked the value on his 1 when I brought this up, was curious if anyone had pics of a 2 to see if that ap cap is actually 18n?

Will this shot from the Sput II do???



This is why I always take a bunch of macro shots of original boards before I button them back up.

The 18n vs 180n cap difference is probably due to the fact that the Sput II has a more complex filtering system, allowing for deeper drift through that network.

My man! Thanks Dino! I can quit thinking about that now!

BetterOffShred wrote:My man! Thanks Dino! I can quit thinking about that now!

Prego e sogni d'oro.

My first time doing something a bit old school: a Tonebender MKIV, on a phenolic PCB, classic layout, resistors, caps, yadda-yadda.

As I like the convenience of a 9V power supply and a pilot light, I used a foot switch PCB to get that.

Sounds really great, not a ton of volume on tap, but enough. I might still check out what jumpering that last resistor will bring.
It's "stock" regarding componenet values, I just wanted to own a pedal called DOOMBENDER ....

That looks ace. I like how the circuit fills out the enclosure rather than just occupying 1/4 of the space. What’s the graphic from?

adamajah wrote:That looks ace. I like how the circuit fills out the enclosure rather than just occupying 1/4 of the space. What’s the graphic from?

Thanks!

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I finally have my workspace setup in my new apartment!

My old oscilloscope had been acting up and not really working lately so I took it apart for a serious cleaning. I am beyond amazed at what a difference re-seating and cleaning every contact, connection, and button has made. It boots up almost instantly now, no more relay freakout, no more ghost signals on the crt, and every feature works. yay! I wish I had done this sooner now...

I also decided to put together a basic sine generator for testing builds. I built it on vero out of spare parts based on the valve wizard Low Cost Sine-wave Generator. It's super simple and stable so I recommend it to anyone who needs a sine generator. I just need to sort out a setup for drilling enclosure in my new place since I sold my drill press when I moved.