ilovefuzz.com

5088 is just the low noise 5089, mpsa18 will be around 1k hfe, most 5089/88 I have are 500-700. Conversely try something like a 2n3904 in Q1, sometimes less gain in Q1 opens stuff up. Worth a try if it's socketed

[youtube][/youtube]

SoaringTortoise wrote:[youtube][/youtube]

That fuzz gave me the delighted heebie jeebies, so queasy. Love it!

BetterOffShred wrote:5088 is just the low noise 5089, mpsa18 will be around 1k hfe, most 5089/88 I have are 500-700. Conversely try something like a 2n3904 in Q1, sometimes less gain in Q1 opens stuff up. Worth a try if it's socketed

All Q's are socketed, as is C1.

SoaringTortoise wrote:[youtube][/youtube]

Nice pieces everybody! I do like that gnarly wooden box Companion there.

I just finished something for a friend. He had this great mint tin and wanted some dirt in it, and I happened to have a push/push pot I'd never used. So it became an Electra Dist with a millennium bypass. Just a volume knob + internal trimpot for gain adjustment. 3.5mm input/output jacks (actually ordered 2 big-small jack leads) because size constraints. They are mounted to a rail from an old soundcard. On/off switch for the battery, pieces of blue Sugru here and there.

I had a lot of problems with this build tbh, from building 4 different millennium boards, a bad 914 diode, measuring and going over everything thrice... But it was an educational trip and now it's working perfectly.

that's rough. anytime you have a bad diode just takes forever. the final build turned out pretty killer!

Picked up an old project Peavey amp that didn't have a footswitch:



Stock used a din switch you can't get anymore -- 3 wires and ground. Ground red or green wire to get channel A or B, ground neither to get both channels combined. Ditched the reverb switch because who turns off reverb, and wired it to a stereo 1/4" jack. Power is just for LEDs and it will work without, but there's no LEDs on the amp so you need them unless you run wildly different settings on each channel.

Sick! Love the graphic too

Had to stay TRVE KVLT.

Haven't posted in a really long time...

Finally got around to completing a long time project:

True stereo cross-fading panner. Basically every panner on the market keeps the channels completely separate, modulating them in opposite fashion. Right channel is always right channel, Left channel is always left channel.

This is the opposite idea. Want your left channel distortion chain, and your right channel modulation chain to fly across a mix? That's what this does.

un-faded: Right input-->Right output, Left input -->Left output
cross-faded: Right input-->Left output, Left input-->Right output

9 waveforms: sine, ramp, saw, triangle, square, random, ring mod(audio rate square wave), manual, manual inverted.

Expression/CV input.

extra fancy synth style vcas(not ota) with high headroom.

yadda, yadda...

That's dope man looks like fun

that sounds goddamn amazing

truth.hz wrote:Haven't posted in a really long time...

Finally got around to completing a long time project:

True stereo cross-fading panner. Basically every panner on the market keeps the channels completely separate, modulating them in opposite fashion. Right channel is always right channel, Left channel is always left channel.

This is the opposite idea. Want your left channel distortion chain, and your right channel modulation chain to fly across a mix? That's what this does.

un-faded: Right input-->Right output, Left input -->Left output
cross-faded: Right input-->Left output, Left input-->Right output

9 waveforms: sine, ramp, saw, triangle, square, random, ring mod(audio rate square wave), manual, manual inverted.

Expression/CV input.

extra fancy synth style vcas(not ota) with high headroom.

yadda, yadda...

Can I get a schematic of this? Very cool!

Yeah. Same.

+1