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Rivets look pretty cool, too.

The only people that really care about the rivets are those who would open it up, clone it, then resell the original.
Rivets are not a huge deal, and if they are, you can replace them with bolts/screws most of the time.
If I ever get ahold of one I'll immediately open that bitch up and copy it, though.





But I'm a pack rat so I'd keep it forever, too.

jrfox92 wrote:The only people that really care about the rivets are those who would open it up, clone it, then resell the original.
Rivets are not a huge deal, and if they are, you can replace them with bolts/screws most of the time.
If I ever get ahold of one I'll immediately open that bitch up and copy it, though.





But I'm a pack rat so I'd keep it forever, too.

Rivets can be carefully drilled out, and replaced, with the exact same model, and size. I've seen the Munckin box, they're dead ordinary pop rivets. Nothing more.

The trick is not to drill all the way through. Use a drill bit one size larger than the diameter of the rivet body, and drill down only through the head of the rivet. This cuts the material where the head meets the body, and the head pops off. If done well, the head breaks off, and sticks to the tip of the drill bit. You then punch out the rest of the rivet, leaving the hole size untouched.

I had to do the same thing to the Spaceman WOW Signal to get the board out for tracing. The rivet for the serial number tag were in the way. I measured the rivet beforehand, and ordered identical ones off the net. Did my work, and reinstalled the plate. Looked like nothing ever happened.

IMHO, using pop rivets to prevent people from opening up an enclosure isn't exactly the greatest dissuasion method, or construction method either for that matter. With time, they work loose mechanically, and get all wobbly. I consider them a temporary fix, or a fastener for non-mechanical applications.

Looks like Tym spent too much money on the research, and ran out of cash for a decent anti-tamper option. +1 on the "open that bitch up" angle.

So, a bit of a bump.

First off, I need to swallow some crow on the last statement of my last post here. As I said, the rivets were cake to pop, but +1 to Tym on the anti-tamper, the board is quite thoroughly gooped...



Needless to say, it still didn't pose much of an obstacle. Simply heating the board with a hair dryer caused the goop to become quite pliable, and fairly easy to remove.



For those of you wondering where all the mojo parts are hiding, let me commiserate that I feel your pain. Alas... no mojo parts in sight. Metal film resistors, greenie caps, and off the shelf diodes and transistors as far as the eye can see. Not even some weird ass values as per Spaceman standard. Values place it as a combo of three different Muffs from the 70's era. We'll have a board and deets for it up at DEFX in the near future.

Im trying to remember a single time where goop was actually hiding something wildly compelling. I guess the Klon has been the only time thus far that the circuit was doing something a bit unique.

I think the volume bypass switch is a really cool idea. Otherwise I think his muff sound isn't that special, it's just like big muff into an amp that is overdriven so you clip off the fuzziest part