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Yah I try to avoid sanding at all costs. Haven't used heat guns with poly, but use them when stripping phenolic resins. The phenolics are a tad harder and my 2000w gun has a tough time handling the job. Couldnt imagine trying that job with the more commonly available 1200w-1500w guns. Can't knock it though as I haven't tried it.

Was thinking it'd be nice to have a guitar project around the house, so if you do decide to give up on that body, I can offer up an old big box ehx bassballs as trade bait if interested. My bass player is no fun and pretty much despises the use of pedals that reminds him of the chili peppers, so I traded a tuner for it. Its a fun pedal, but think it suits bass much better and me play no bass.

Just PM'd you!

Man, the cavities on that thing look gnarly as hell. Like everyone else has said, if it doesn't work out then there are plenty of other tele bodies that can be picked up cheaply!



.....Orrrrr you can get on with the Bass VI project?


Is it weird that I've never used any form of paint stripper/remover? I've always sanded, not even with a bench one, just by hand This being said, it does take an eternity with some models. I've got the body of a Squier Jagmaster that supposedly has a nitrocellulose finish done by the previous owner. Supposedly. Doesn't look like nitro cellulose

Am I right in thinking that with nitrocellulose I probably should use some form of paint stripper as previously mentioned? Not intentionally trying to highjack the thread here.

I like the use of solvents because they are kinda a set it and forget deal. Generally it takes me 15 minutes to strip, scrub, and reapply a project this size, if I do this twice a day for 5 days, I only have 2 and a half hours of effort into the proccess, where as if sanding by hand, I'd spend about 3 times the amount of time, and the costs of all sandpaper used would cost more than certain solvents. Sanding mechanically can save quite a bit of time, but is also a very easy way to screw up contours on your project.

The key in using solvents is choosing the one that best suits your project, I originally recommended citristrip as I assumed all fender guitars were finished in polyurethane, but found out that wasn't the case with MIM fenders, as that factory uses polyester to finish their guitars, and would require somthing like methylene chloride to do the job.

It really comes down to what method works best for you. Heat guns have been brought up and have there uses, but are tedious and labor exstensive like sanding, as your usually pulling finish off a piece at a time. But would never go about using one on any project using plywood/laminates which is what a lot of squier, and low end guitar builders make there bodies from, what typically happens is you end up peeling up layers of laminate along with the finish, and then you have another job in its own filling in the top and and making it presentable, if your body is of solid stock, this not a problem and a method some people use on there refinishing projects.

Change of plans!

Pine Esquire body. Cream DiMarzio Super Distortion T. Black single ply pickguard. Going to put the maple neck on it

Thanks for the advice Brandon, the body I've got is finished in nitrocellulose (oddly without any gloss, it's literally just the paint/lacquer itself) and the body is made of alder. So that should be easy enough to sort out.



Back on topic: Nice body Skully, that looks way more promising! I've always loved the simplicity of the Esquires. Any plans to rout it for a neck pickup, or keep it with a single bridge? Also, never come across a pine guitar body before, how does that effect the general sound?

I miiiiiight route it out for a WRHB, but still play it as an Esquire for a bit. I dont want to put a ton of money into it (right now sitting at about $130).
I'll see if this Squire neck fits into the neck route or not. It's a little wider than the MIM Fender neck that I have. If it doesn't fit, I'll sell it off and get a reverse headstock maple (or exotic wood) neck, I've been curious of other woods that do not need to be finished

As far as pine goes, my other Telecaster body is pine I believe, and is SUPER light. The guitar in general is jangly and raw sounding.

That's a fair point, especially as you may realise you enjoy it more as a single pickup guitar. It's funny how limiting your options can actually make you more creative in what you do, and make you enjoy a guitar more.

Any idea where the body originally came from? I know that if it's a warmoth, almost all of their neck pockets are standard 56mm wide? But then I suppose it's whether the neck and pocket match up in shape as well. Can't fit a square peg in a round hole and all that.

Yeah I guess it would be quite open sounding, I think Creston Guitars like to use pine for bodies.

That tele is fucking beautiful. That finish on the body is actually what I originally wanted to do with my strat project haha.

Looks like a versatile beast as well! Noice

skullservant wrote:I miiiiiight route it out for a WRHB, but still play it as an Esquire for a bit. I dont want to put a ton of money into it (right now sitting at about $130).
I'll see if this Squire neck fits into the neck route or not. It's a little wider than the MIM Fender neck that I have. If it doesn't fit, I'll sell it off and get a reverse headstock maple (or exotic wood) neck, I've been curious of other woods that do not need to be finished

As far as pine goes, my other Telecaster body is pine I believe, and is SUPER light. The guitar in general is jangly and raw sounding.

Man if you end up not wanting that squire neck let me know, apparently that shellcaster may be somewhat of an oddity, and all those layers of paint were actually from the factory. I may have my work cut out for me on that body.

Hahaha it's funny because I've got 3 other guitars that only have 1 pickup and just a volume knob- my Telemaster, my EGC, and my Strat. I love it that way though, and they all sound SO different.

And definitely man, I'll let you know about the neck!

I've been wondering whether or not to add a second pickup to my stickered guitar, but then I spent all morning playing it and decided NOPE. The simplicity is part of it's charm I guess.

It's perfect just the way it is, one pickup, one volume (push-pull for coil split), and a momentary killswitch. Nothing else needed!

If anything, I'm wondering about stripping it down further and losing the killswitch....but then I remember how fun it is.




Mind you, since shielding that strat project I've realised how noisy my stickered one is so I think that's the next thing I need to do to it

hahhah yeah, I've definitely noticed that shielding has been pretty necessary on a few of my builds.

Starting to think instead of trying to make this Squier neck work that I should just go for it and turn THIS into my Bass VI project and get a 30" neck

Bass VI tele?

Dude.











Dude.










YES.

Yeah, screw it. I'm gonna go for it