ilovefuzz.com

I kinda wanna buy a PDS1002 and get it rehoused in an enclosure with arcade buttons for the stomps, I would want to use it as a glitchy quick resampling pedal. I had one and liked it but the switches are terrible.

ChetMagongalo wrote:I kinda wanna buy a PDS1002 and get it rehoused in an enclosure with arcade buttons for the stomps, I would want to use it as a glitchy quick resampling pedal. I had one and liked it but the switches are terrible.

Sounds awesome...I had a blast modding my DOD delay...

but you should put it in a bigger box, add AC transformer inside, and make it look like a Pete Cornish pedal (sticker labels) haha. Then post pics at TGP or something and let them try to figure out why Cornish made you a glitch pedal with arcade buttons.

Use Sanwa (like the Dr) or Semitsu switches...

is the mod on the ILFDD anything like the mod on the bitquest's delay?

Absolutely nothing like it.

"In case you're the kind of person looking for MAXIMUM fuzz…"

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdZ6zz_gocg[/youtube]

resincum wrote:is the mod on the ILFDD anything like the mod on the bitquest's delay?

The mod on the bitquest is changing where it reads the delay from, so you can get pitch stuff, but it is kind of more like the Ct5. The ILFDD is just classic LFO modulating the time on the delay line to provide a relatively subtle vibrato effect. It can get a little crazy but not very. The repeats have a very particular filtered sound to them. It is my favourite delay probably, but it if you don't like its character you're kind of stuck with it. The oscillation function is awesomely controllable.

All this time, so blind.


Gibson SGs are the perfect guitar, exactly the guitar that i've always wanted, the underrated, slightly underachieving relative to the more popular sibling.

Endangered Audio Research has released a version 3 of the gristlizer http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... pre-built/ http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... letop-kit/

No idea what the difference is at all.

So apparently the Timefactor looper is a DL-4 and Anti-Nautilus rolled together with a heaping helping of aux switch/expression/MIDI control options. The delays are decent enough but holy crap, the looper... I think I need a MIDI controller now.

lordgalvar wrote:Endangered Audio Research has released a version 3 of the gristlizer http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... pre-built/ http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... letop-kit/

Hmmm, I was beginning to think they were out of business...

lordgalvar wrote:Endangered Audio Research has released a version 3 of the gristlizer http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... pre-built/ http://www.endangeredaudioresearch.com/ ... letop-kit/

No idea what the difference is at all.

Yeah looks like they're playing it pretty close to the chest -- aside from 'easier to build.'

I think my Gristleizer is going wonky.

My old ass Gristleizer gave out recently. Rarely outputs anything now

I know that the music PCB, EAR, and OG all had differences in the power section (which resulted, to a degree, in slightly different sweeps of the LFO)...but maybe the EAR one is just a PCB revision (like they ran out of their last run, just made a nice layout?)...

They could have made the trim adjustments to shape the LFO easier and more stable too? I dunno...Could also be that they include all the CV hookups as easier mods now (or are just standard). I know they were when UG picked up his EAR.

The music PCB ones used a MAX or something to give the correct power and the EAR ones used a bi-polar supply...

Sorry to hear about your guys' gristleizers...I haven't pulled my DanW one out in a long while...think it is more suited to the synth/noise stuff more than my guitar playing (for me at least).

Yeah it's very strange -- like the LFO is disconnecting from the input signal and running parallel to it, rather than effecting it. Which makes fuck all sense if you think about 'how effects work' but that's the best way I can describe it.

It can make sense. The LFO on the gristleizer is somehow taken off the power supply I think (which is why it needs to be bipolar). Like really old ring mod carrier signals. But again, I have no clue...

I'm sure it can be fixed though (but it's one of those things...like will it cost the same to fix or replace, I dunno?...kinda sucks...). Maybe it is a bias problem?