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deadbeatriot wrote:my personal favorite is a simple tone bypass switch. it's super simple and adds an entire dimension of usable tones

I have a question kind'a aboot this...

How can I put in a tone bypass switch for just the treble side of the tone stack?

Mudfuzz wrote:

deadbeatriot wrote:my personal favorite is a simple tone bypass switch. it's super simple and adds an entire dimension of usable tones

I have a question kind'a aboot this...

How can I put in a tone bypass switch for just the treble side of the tone stack?

Mudfuzz wrote:

Mudfuzz wrote:

deadbeatriot wrote:my personal favorite is a simple tone bypass switch. it's super simple and adds an entire dimension of usable tones

I have a question kind'a aboot this...

How can I put in a tone bypass switch for just the treble side of the tone stack?

I'm still learning, but here's my take on that. Here is the standard big muff tonestack:



It is essentially a high-pass filter and a low-pass filter blended together by the pot in the middle.

The cap and resistor on the top half of the image are the high-pass filter. To disconnect the high-pass portion of the circuit, you would bypass that cap and resistor, by running a wire all the way from the input on the left to the top lug of the pot.

If you wanted it switchable, a simple spst flipswitch would do it, with one end wired to the top lug of the pot, and the other end wired directly to the input of the tonestack.

Cool thanks! I'll try and try that.

Ooh... interesting.

Got a muff on my breadboard right now that I've been messing with trying to make a new sort of Muff variant.

So far, I've:
MPSA18s. Slightly higher gain than normal. Not supposed to make a huge difference, but I didn't try 2N5088s.
Removed the 100 ohm biasing resistors (jumper straight to ground) on the clipping stages. Probably going to do that on all the stages.
Removed the 100K resistors. Didn't really do that much, honestly. Just less parts to add in, I guess. I left a 100K pot on the second clipping stage for a gate control.
Removing the diodes is awesome. All 4 options here sound very different and unique. Tried using a smaller cap to clip less low end, but it sounded lame.
Remove the high-end roll off caps (the small ones next to the diodes). I'm 90% sure this is the "tone wicker" setting. I honestly never even put them in.

With the tone control, I used totally different values. For the low-pass side, .01uF and 39K (stock), for high pass, .01uF and changing the resistors. Usually 10K or 50K. 10 K is scooped, 50K is flat. Removing the resistor makes it a normal high roll-off sorta tone control, and it's much louder. It's flat all the way up, but with way more volume.

I'm going to experiment with a Green Ringer-style octave section and a clean blend (with treble cut) soon.

Very much suggest trying this while you have it on the Bread board... so much more useful than the standard tone control -
http://amps.zugster.net/images/articles ... -schem.gif

Otherwise, you're getting much the same results I did, removing the diodes had the most dramatic effect and everything else was just minor things that weren't that exciting to my ears.

The Green ringer sounds like a cool addition though

Sounds... mufflyier and bigger

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaat value is that giant cap?

theavondon wrote:Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaat value is that giant cap?

Looks like a 0.1uF 630v cap to me.

Also available in 7mm x 2mm x 6mm

Dr Satan wrote:

theavondon wrote:Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaat value is that giant cap?

Looks like a 0.1uF 630v cap to me.

yes

eatyourguitar wrote::lol: Also available in 7mm x 2mm x 6mm

They sent me the wrong one and I didn't feel it was worth bitching about

might be a bit obvious, but I like to use Duncan's Tonestack Calculator to mess with the resistor and cap values of the tonestack to get a response more suited to my taste...
my bad taste, probably...

http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/

Use it all the time^ Very helpful tool. Plus, it's got the fender stack and a couple others.