ilovefuzz.com

Whoa...

Anywho, I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow. Should be power up day with any luck. Assuming i wire everything correctly

Wikipedia... wrong that could never happen!

You dare me to use 800 degrees.. okay, infact i'd even solder a germanium transistor with it... my iron will be on the board for such a short amount of time with that heat, that I will stand less risk of damaging the component or board as the heat will begin to dissipate as soon as I remove the iron rather than sit there while I hold the iron to the board and component and creep up it, it's like the boards own personal heat sync.

Also are you saying that solder that is not 60/40 will mean boards wont work, if I use unleaded solder which requires more heat to melt will none of my effects ever work cause last I remember... all the effects in europe which are ROHS and HAVE to use unleaded solder seemed to be working (not that I suggest the use of unleaded solder, it's crap)

An iron may not 'need' to get that hot, but it doesn't mean it's not better for the purpose if it is hotter... and that is an incredibly poor analogy... cakes are not electronics, however, using your analogy, if I wanted potato chips to crisp on the outside quickly rather than go soggy on the inside with longer cooking I would bake them at 5000 rather than 350 yes, just as I want solder to melt and not affect the component centre of my crisp.

I'm sure your 3+ years and dozens of bedroom made GGG kit effects are very useful to you... but following layouts and playing with a breadboard do not make you all knowledgeable on all aspects of effects building and I don't claim to be the most knowledgeable either although I have had plenty of experience with a soldering iron and learning about the subject but I will say that smallsnd/bigsnd has his own products selling through fuzz hugger, the owner of the forums shop and he can probably tell us from his own experience a little bit of information on the subject and I see no reason why he would actively seek to try and prevent people from assembling effects in a safe and effective fashion.

Scruffie wrote:Wikipedia... wrong that could never happen!

You dare me to use 800 degrees.. okay, infact i'd even solder a germanium transistor with it... my iron will be on the board for such a short amount of time with that heat, that I will stand less risk of damaging the component or board as the heat will begin to dissipate as soon as I remove the iron rather than sit there while I hold the iron to the board and component and creep up it, it's like the boards own personal heat sync.

Also are you saying that solder that is not 60/40 will mean boards wont work, if I use unleaded solder which requires more heat to melt will none of my effects ever work cause last I remember... all the effects in europe which are ROHS and HAVE to use unleaded solder seemed to be working (not that I suggest the use of unleaded solder, it's crap)

An iron may not 'need' to get that hot, but it doesn't mean it's not better for the purpose if it is hotter... and that is an incredibly poor analogy... cakes are not electronics, however, using your analogy, if I wanted potato chips to crisp on the outside quickly rather than go soggy on the inside with longer cooking I would bake them at 5000 rather than 350 yes, just as I want solder to melt and not affect the component centre of my crisp.

I'm sure your 3+ years and dozens of bedroom made GGG kit effects are very useful to you... but following layouts and playing with a breadboard do not make you all knowledgeable on all aspects of effects building and I don't claim to be the most knowledgeable either although I have had plenty of experience with a soldering iron and learning about the subject but I will say that smallsnd/bigsnd has his own products selling through fuzz hugger, the owner of the forums shop and he can probably tell us from his own experience a little bit of information on the subject and I see no reason why he would actively seek to try and prevent people from assembling effects in a safe and effective fashion.

I specifically said FROM SCRATCH. If you're counting kits that's 20+ pedals... And BTW, I am in the process of designing my own OD, and have built pedals from just a schematic before, so, yeah, your right, following layouts doesn't make you knowledgeable. Classes, experience outside of just pedals, and learning everything you possibly can DOES make you knowledgeable. I'm not saying I'm the most knowledgeable, I'm trying to say that I'm not some kid that learned how to solder yesterday, and I don't want to see someone do something totally wrong and fuck up his project. Fucking up is a real pain-in-the-ass, I know, I've done it too many times to count.

Anyways, you have your opinion, and I have mine. Arguing is not an effective use of time for either of us. Also, I didn't actually mean to imply snd was purposefully misleading people, what I meant by that was that his information seemed to be incorrect, and using a hyperbole made my argument stronger.

Yes... the kits part was sarcasm on my part, but admittedly difficult to portray via the interwebz.

I've designed several effects too though, i'm by no means what i'd class as a bedroom solder jockey (not that there's anything wrong with that, I actively encourage others to build there own effects) but nor am I advanced, i'm an advanced begginer I would probably say.

I also have experience outside of pedals too though and also actively learn what I can from reliable sources, i've even done some electronics theory at A-Level and from my experience, the advice of others far more knowledgeable than me, what he was suggesting was not an issue that deserved the reply given.

Arguing doesn't get us anywhere though no, you are quite right, but neither does outright calling people out and your use of hyperbole merely came off as rude as, as with my sarcasm, emotion is difficult to portray without body language, had you questioned his comments in the first place rather than outright discplacing them as wrong, then I wouldn't have had a less than polite retort... And Relax

Both of you are a lot smarter than me as far as this goes...so there! Back to the PCBs! Thanks again for help.

Scruffie wrote:Yes... the kits part was sarcasm on my part, but admittedly difficult to portray via the interwebz.

I've designed several effects too though, i'm by no means what i'd class as a bedroom solder jockey (not that there's anything wrong with that, I actively encourage others to build there own effects) but nor am I advanced, i'm an advanced begginer I would probably say.

I also have experience outside of pedals too though and also actively learn what I can from reliable sources, i've even done some electronics theory at A-Level and from my experience, the advice of others far more knowledgeable than me, what he was suggesting was not an issue that deserved the reply given.

Arguing doesn't get us anywhere though no, you are quite right, but neither does outright calling people out and your use of hyperbole merely came off as rude as, as with my sarcasm, emotion is difficult to portray without body language, had you questioned his comments in the first place rather than outright discplacing them as wrong, then I wouldn't have had a less than polite retort.

It's quite alright. It's true though, I really dislike text as a method of portraying anything but straight information. It's no way to have a conversation, because you lose so many dimensions, like tone of voice, body language, facial expressions, etc...

Anyways, yeah, not sure if I helped at all, but if I did you're welcome Jahsoul. If you have any specific questions later, and you don't feel like putting it in a thread, feel free to PM me, I don't mind, I'm sure Scruffie feels the same if you PM'd him too. He seems like a knowledgeable guy

hmmmm ok didn't mean to start any shit here. i'm certainly not the most knowledgeable person here and i never purported to be... but telling me not to be a pussy is probably unnecessary.

in my experience sockets are not as durable as simply soldering a transistor onto a board. if you plan on gigging/touring/abusing the pedal, there is a chance the transistor can come out of the socket - something that will NOT happen if it's soldered.

as far as the temperature goes, i may have the numbers a bit high. my mistake and i apologize for any misinformation... i use my iron, a weller WES51 (which goes from 350-850 degrees, btw) at 700 degrees F - my tips last for a long time, i have only damaged components with heat a few times (mostly desoldering...) and i have never damaged/lifted a trace. start with the heat low and work your way up depending on what your technique calls for - it is a fact that you will more likely damage a component by heating it longer with a lower heat than by quickly hitting it with high heat.

you can always use a set of alligator clips as a heatsink, btw. ...and yes... wikipedia is wrong sometimes.

maybe i should lower my heat a little bit, though - i'll try it out when i get back from tour - maybe my tip will last a bit longer?

Mark wrote:I really dislike text as a method of portraying anything but straight information. It's no way to have a conversation, because you lose so many dimensions, like tone of voice, body language, facial expressions, etc...

+1

smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:

Mark wrote:I really dislike text as a method of portraying anything but straight information. It's no way to have a conversation, because you lose so many dimensions, like tone of voice, body language, facial expressions, etc...

+1

+2

And +1 on the socket front as I already stated.

And yes too much heat will wear out your tip faster, personally i'd actually stick to 580-620 Farenheit for run of the mill components, so the mid way and then hotter temperatures for pots & jacks (about 650) but it all depends on technique and personal preference (i've never lifted a trace desoldering with hotter temperatures either) but none are wrong, too hot screws up your iron's tip, too cold and you'll fry components, set it to a happy mid-way where you can solder fast (a joint should take about 1.5s tops) and not damage your tip and use what feels best.

Scruffie wrote:set it to a happy mid-way where you can solder fast (a joint should take about 1.5s tops) and not damage your tip and use what feels best.

i fucking love that we came to an agreement, even with this text-based conversation! ...and i'm drunk.

My soldering iron does adjust heat...maybe I should invest in that. Cheap suggestions?

jahsoul wrote:My soldering iron does adjust heat...maybe I should invest in that. Cheap suggestions?

What sort of soldering iron do you have? If it's Weller and its bright orange, try setting it to around 3 or 3.5. That's the correct temperature, and will give you nice, glossy joints. Also, make sure you wipe your tip repeatedly, especially if you melt plastic on it by accident. A clean tip is a huge part of soldering correctly. If you are planning on doing a lot of PCB work, you probably want to invest in a smaller tip. I use the smallest tip Weller makes for this soldering iron, I believe it's the ST-8 or something like that. They cost like 3 bucks a tip but it's a huge difference. I do much better work on the PCBs with the small tip than with the large screwdriver tip it came with. Of course, soldering to the back of pots or tremolo claws is too big of a task for the tiny tip, so I still use the large tip from time to solder the big stuff...

My iron doesn't. That was a typo.

jahsoul wrote:My iron doesn't. That was a typo.

oooooh....

http://www.elexp.com/sdr_wlc1.htm