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rfurtkamp wrote:If a problem comes along, swap tubes!

Truth. Even if you don't have spares, sometimes swapping the positions of the preamp tubes can clear something up (keep them in the same family, pretty sure that's a non-issue with the HRD). If it does so, put some spares of that sort on your shopping list. Hell, I've made problems go away by simply pulling and re-seating a tube, though they exhibited different symptoms than what's under discussion.

I just pulled a schematic for a HRD and I notice they have a jack switched (normalled) effects loop. It *might* be a bit early for THAT to give you grief, but I have observed it in older amps where those jacks go unused - the switch contacts (which complete the circuit from preamp to power amp sections) can oxidize or collect a film (especially if you smoke or gig in a smoked place), giving intermittent problems that can be tied to vibration and a sense of power loss, etc. Sometimes some contact cleaner & exercise of those jacks is enough to correct that issue, but if the jack is open frame dipping a small strip of paper into isopropyl and pulling that through the closed switch contacts will fix it quick.

Don't mind me, I'm just firing guns into the air.

Damn, I really hope that local GC has some good pre's for sale bc I really wanted to knock this whole repair out this weekend. Thx for the tip

This just popped up on craigslist, but something seems off cosmetically from the jump about it. The heads alone usually go for at least 800:

http://charleston.craigslist.org/msg/5476548042.html

No matter what you end up chasing, have an extra set of complete tubes on hand.

And fuses of the right rating (slo-blo if slo-blo required, it makes a difference!).

Any used amps you're looking at, check the fuses.

You'd be amazed what people have put in there over the years or even on new amps that somebody took one from at the music store and the help just threw in *something* to get it working again, etc.

crochambeau wrote:
Don't mind me, I'm just firing guns into the air.

This is pretty much how every thread on this subject unfolds, the difference being I haven't actually tried anything yet because I'm waiting for some power resistors to come in so I can drain caps. The poor OP asking the question gets barraged with a myriad of troubleshooting tips by all the poor forum-members who are giving solid advice, yet the OP always ends up checking back in after each suggestion to say that nothing is making it go away

But I really appreciate the fact that you broke into a schematic to offer some insight. I don't smoke or gig, but I also don't use the effects loop at all, so we'll see when I open it up tomorrow.

You don't need high wattage resistors to drain power caps, anything over 1-2K should drain slowly enough to keep the heat down.

Nobody probably cares at this point, but after a month of ordering tube dampers, cleaning sockets with contact cleaner, and getting in a couple of tung sol pres, I think I've figured out the source of that dumbass rattle. There's a hole in the left side of the pcb that allows a shortcut for cables from one side of the board to the other. I think those cables are rattling up against the plastic tube-like tunnel, because every time the rattle happens all I have to do is gently move those cables upward for it to stop. Don't know exactly what the plan is going forward, but I'm just fucking peachy now that I've narrowed it down

I'd ask on Fender's official forum in the amp section then - they will have somebody (company or individual dealer) who probably has fixed this problem before with a simple thing.

rfurtkamp wrote:I'd ask on Fender's official forum in the amp section then - they will have somebody (company or individual dealer) who probably has fixed this problem before with a simple thing.

Yeah, definitely research, but it seems like a dab of caulk or something would do it, to act as a shock absorber/dampener. As long as it isn't putting stress on the cables and isn't going to make an electrical connection(I don't think it conducts, but still).

Maybe even hot glue? It's often used to hold LEds in place in the face of a pedal, so I could see it holding wires in place, as long as you don't melt the sheilding.

I've seen plenty of silverface twins listed at $600, and I managed to talk someone down to $500 (and that one had Cannabis Rex speakers). Ultimately went with a Musicman though. I would not pay more than $600 for a TRRI given the market for silverfaces personally.

CyaNitrate wrote:

rfurtkamp wrote:I'd ask on Fender's official forum in the amp section then - they will have somebody (company or individual dealer) who probably has fixed this problem before with a simple thing.

Yeah, definitely research, but it seems like a dab of caulk or something would do it, to act as a shock absorber/dampener. As long as it isn't putting stress on the cables and isn't going to make an electrical connection(I don't think it conducts, but still).

Also a case of how it holds up to heat/vibration/etc as well.

Chances are the chassis gets reasonably warm inside after a longer playing session.

rfurtkamp wrote:I'd ask on Fender's official forum in the amp section then - they will have somebody (company or individual dealer) who probably has fixed this problem before with a simple thing.

Good call. I've narrowed it down to location and made sure it wasn't the tubes, which is a good start, so I'm pretty confident that someone will on that forum has had to come across this specific problem. I really think this amp is a decent pedal platform, and I don't have the money to upgrade to anything vintage (or the options on craigslist in my area tbh), so I'd love to finally fix this.