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That'd be awesome! Its working again for some reason, I didn't even touch it it just works... BUT I'm going to fix it up anyways to make it more reliable.

When I get home tonight I'll open it up and take a shot and post it.

Sorry it took a few days... But I opened the muff and took some shots of the guts and how I did the repair. I could have ordered the same switch that was in there but I decided to use a 3pdt and make my muff true bypass.

I also had to change the battery snap as the one that was in this muff was done. If you trace the wires then you can see how I did it.

Here it is:



and



I wired the 3pdt up like this:



Works like a charm!

Hope that helps.

The russian muff will now not turn on. I have tons of pictures taken, but if I post them here they will be huge due to Imgur. Anyone wanna PM me an email address?

It's going to be a birthday gift for a good friend. His first muff! If that matters.

What did you do to it specifically? Do the LED's come on? Does it bypass? If it doesn't bypass, then your jacks are wired wrong, that's if you went with off board jacks. Some circuits are weird as hell and will not work unless the LED's are wired correctly as well. So double check that.

Also, double check you power plug wiring. I've mis-wired them so many fucking times it's insane. It's just easy to get in a hurry and forget shit that you know.

Post the pics here that you can so that you get the most help.

It should have been very straight forward, so something is probably just slightly off.

I'll get some pics up today.

I used the on board jacks, this is for the russian muff by the way.

The LED does not come on, I'll have to check if it bypasses.

I'm pretty sure my power supply is wired in right, but I also took a picture of that too.

Made an Imgur album of the pics

http://imgur.com/a/rejhA

OK so my mind goes to the jacks. Their is not enough solder coverage on them. You can see gaps in them where there should be solder. So I would try and resolder them. Don't pull them, just put a bit more solder on each leg so the holes get a good connection.

Cool! I'll try that tonight. Would that be why the LED isn't even lighting up?

It could be. I've had it happen to me a bunch of times. Sometimes you think the solder has a good connection and it doesn't. Like the wire is just sitting there. I mean with those being board mounted, I would just make sure they are fully covered to make sure that's not the issue.

Any luck???

As suggested earlier I would re-flow the solder as the picture is not very clear it looks almost like you have a few cold solders here and there. Check if you have true bypass signal (I use a continuity setting on my MultiMtr) on the tip pins of your in/output jacks. Also try to connect the positive wire to both pos. lugs on your DC jack.

It has not worked yet. Having a friend look at it Sunday