ilovefuzz.com

It was actually $3.95. It was the shipping that bumped me to. $11.

The resistors and caps. Came today.

vintage resistors do not always fit the pcb. they work better on turret board and tag board. I don't know what you are planning exactly if these are for a crybaby.

I don't know either! Just following online suggestions.

I'll be trying them also in my vox v847a... Such as this. The stock .01 sweep cap out for .022 tropical fish. Took some patience getting the cap off.. But it looks sexy.



I'll be keeping the vox upgrades in the other thread.

Paddyob wrote:Man $$ add up when you be having fun.

Just ordered the 3pdt switch. The blue one that you see everywhere. And a black one... To compare.

The only difference is the color. Seriously.

eatyourguitar wrote:$11 for an LED

I'm in Canada as well, and I'll echo eatyourguitar.... 11 bux???!!!

I've learned to be frugal, and patient. Order from Tayda, and save yourself some cash. The parts are cheap, and shipping is free. Yes... even to Canada. For $11, you could have gotten your stomp switch, and a bunch of chrome bezels and LED's.

I had asked about where in canada before I bought anything and I only received comments to shop in the USA.

I will try your suggestion next time, as I had no idea.

things have changed over the years. tayda is shipping the USA sales from the USA now. I would guess that they ship from USA to CAN no problem. two weeks to arrive but you can build a business on the money you save. I can not think of a better way to buy LED's and resistors.

eatyourguitar wrote:things have changed over the years. tayda is shipping the USA sales from the USA now. I would guess that they ship from USA to CAN no problem. two weeks to arrive but you can build a business on the money you save. I can not think of a better way to buy LED's and resistors.

No, I'm getting my stuff in envelopes with Thai postage. Free shipping, from over there. I buy from their EBay store front, Tayda2009. They are the same entity. Really quick delivery too. I usually get my stuff inside of a 10 - 17 day window. At those prices, and free delivery to boot, that's pretty respectable. I just organize my builds accordingly, that's why I generally have at least two builds going simultaneously. One in the early stages, and one in the later.

$11 is the price of schooling. Chalk it up to live'n and learn'n

I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.

I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.

Paddyob wrote:I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.

How are you desoldering?

Three schools of thought:
1. Heat and yank. Not good. Don't do this, as the risk of damaging the board is high.
2. Desoldering bulb / solder sucker. Some people love these. They seem fiddly to me. Maybe best for removing large amounts of solder.
3. Desoldering braid. Woven copper that sucks up the solder.

Personally, I only use desoldering braid. If you buy the good stuff-- and this is it-- it works incredibly well. Don't bother with the cheap crap. It has no rosin, and simply doesn't work.

All you do is place the braid on your joint and heat with your iron. The solder gets wicked up the copper. It's kind of fun. If there is not enough solder to get a good wick, you can add more. If done right, components will often fall right out of the board.

Good luck!

I was using a bulb. But I went snd bought a braid. $7 at source.

Cheap LEDs there too.

So I did fuck up the trace. I managed to find a tutorial in fixing it. So I followed it. Scraped off some green coating to get copper. Tinned. Bent leads to touch. Solder. Fixed. I believe. That was on the C5 cap. Now an .022 tropical. I also changed the R1 resistor to carbon comp 1.8k.