AxAxSxS wrote:Wow man, this is going to be so cool! We gotta meet up sometime and compare gear and projects and stuffs
update... I do NOT recommend Stu mac's house brand black nitro in a rattle can, it dries too fast to settle right and goes on too thick... I has much leveling to do
when the second Musima gets here i'm going to paint it the darkest teal i can find in the rattlecans of auto touchup paint they have at large auto supply stores...i read a Ry Cooder interview in the 70s where he said that he used this for all his custom-colored Strats in the days when Custom Shop guitars didn't exist. i have to decide whether to do the neck to match.
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FIFTY YEARS OF SCARING THE CHILDREN 1970-2020--and i'm not done yet
dubkitty wrote:when the second Musima gets here i'm going to paint it the darkest teal i can find in the rattlecans of auto touchup paint they have at large auto supply stores...i read a Ry Cooder interview in the 70s where he said that he used this for all his custom-colored Strats in the days when Custom Shop guitars didn't exist. i have to decide whether to do the neck to match.
Right on! I've done a few rattle can clear over stained/died wood that came out nice before so I know a good job can be had I guess it's a good thing for me I am shooting for really old look [no relic like 1890's-1920's]
whoa youre puttin together a dream of mine you said you have alot of leveling to do not to get into the abc's of refinishing but what does that entail sanding and recoating? or is there fillng involved nice work and bitchin style mud
ryan summit wrote:whoa youre puttin together a dream of mine you said you have alot of leveling to do not to get into the abc's of refinishing but what does that entail sanding and recoating? or is there fillng involved nice work and bitchin style mud
thanks! What that means is fine sanding to take the spray texture out. The one good thing about this stu mac stuff it it is thick so where I went over the old "faded" finish that had lots of grain texture showing I have now filled in in And yes I plan on recoating it after too! but with either try-oil or Waterlox because I have this look in my head that I wand to achieve which is like gibsons from the 1890s-1930s, we'll see if I can get there... These faded finished things though... what crappy a job gibson did do... you can sand through it so easy.. they might as well had just stained/dyed the color and oiled over it, that would have looked a LOT better then this faded thing.
dubkitty wrote:I don't think you can tru-oil over nitro. i would research this before i tried it.
well yeah, I will test first. but one must always try... I know how to get the look the traditional way but... I don't know I've I want to put that kind of time into a 'merican assembled gibson.
i always thought i wanted a faded and was planning in doing what you are except let the grain show i actually started a thread to get some pointers when i went to gc to try them out i was a bit turned off mostly by the sloppy paint job ed:feel like maybe this was a bummer post im psyched to see how this turns out youre making me want one again
Ohh yeahh, I def am diggin that. Nice idea and I think it look classy, like pinstripes on a hotrod.
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"Ingenuity comes in the face of adversity, and nobody ever becomes a legend by following the rules set by society" -A.A.
I guess it's a good thing for me I am shooting for really old look [no relic like 1890's-1920's] 
And yes I plan on recoating it after too! but with either try-oil or Waterlox because I have this look in my head that I wand to achieve which is like gibsons from the 1890s-1930s, we'll see if I can get there... These faded finished things though... what crappy a job gibson did do... you can sand through it so easy.. they might as well had just stained/dyed the color and oiled over it, that would have looked a LOT better then this faded thing.
I like it anyway 
