Re: Ibanez PT707 Phase Tone II repair help
Posted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 5:14 am
Hi ILF
Apologies for the contrary bump but this is one of the few threads I found about the Phase Tone II, just wanted to add some stuff in case others are looking for help and stumble across it.
Have recently obtained two of these phasers, as for whatever reason they aren't commanding omgvintage prices at the moment. Worn pots aside they both work fine and while the outsides are battered, they were pretty much original when I got them. Even had the caps for their goofy MIDI jack power inputs.
However neither of them have a relay, so it appears that Dirk's schematic is correct, and whoever had the OP's before him had done some serious molesting. I think it's just a buffered-type bypass system controlled by a latching DPDT.
If the bypass is a problem, you can convert it to TB without even changing the switch. I tested this on my spare unit, but tbh I'm not sure if I'll bother for the other one.
-Connect the pink wire (5) directly to the outer lug of the feedback pot, instead of going to the switch first and then on to the pot. Remove the spare pink wire.
-Desolder the white (8) wire from the output jack. There's a spare white wire that connects the jack to the switch, just remove it.
-Jumper the white (8) wire to the blue (4) at the PCB (or vice versa), then treat that as the output of the circuit.
-Desolder the yellow (10) wire from the input jack, that's now just the input of the circuit.
-Wire up TB in your usual way.
PS. The procedure will be slightly different for the later version (black knobs, block logo) as it has a different PCB layout. But I imagine the principal is the same ie. hardwire the original switch connections, then put your bypass 'around' the whole thing.
Apologies for the contrary bump but this is one of the few threads I found about the Phase Tone II, just wanted to add some stuff in case others are looking for help and stumble across it.
Have recently obtained two of these phasers, as for whatever reason they aren't commanding omgvintage prices at the moment. Worn pots aside they both work fine and while the outsides are battered, they were pretty much original when I got them. Even had the caps for their goofy MIDI jack power inputs.
However neither of them have a relay, so it appears that Dirk's schematic is correct, and whoever had the OP's before him had done some serious molesting. I think it's just a buffered-type bypass system controlled by a latching DPDT.
Hard to tell from the picture, but it does look as though you wired it up as per factory setup; the two pink wires on one pole (feedback loop), blue white and black on the other (effected signal):not sure why but the bypass is not %100 quiet like I would like it. this is probably just how it is from the factory.
If the bypass is a problem, you can convert it to TB without even changing the switch. I tested this on my spare unit, but tbh I'm not sure if I'll bother for the other one.
-Connect the pink wire (5) directly to the outer lug of the feedback pot, instead of going to the switch first and then on to the pot. Remove the spare pink wire.
-Desolder the white (8) wire from the output jack. There's a spare white wire that connects the jack to the switch, just remove it.
-Jumper the white (8) wire to the blue (4) at the PCB (or vice versa), then treat that as the output of the circuit.
-Desolder the yellow (10) wire from the input jack, that's now just the input of the circuit.
-Wire up TB in your usual way.
PS. The procedure will be slightly different for the later version (black knobs, block logo) as it has a different PCB layout. But I imagine the principal is the same ie. hardwire the original switch connections, then put your bypass 'around' the whole thing.