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So the wire would go from the "t" spot on the board to the tip of the jack then another wire goes from the tip to the switch? For both in and out?

Does the sleeve part just go from the board to the jack and that's it?

nothing on the board goes to the audio jacks. the audio jacks always get wired to the switch. the T in and T out of the board also go to the switch. you should have all the information you need to go and do this.

Oh ok now that I think about it it would obviously go to the switch first if you want to be able to bypass it.

Another question... What are S4 and S5 on the board? Right now those are what's wired to the bypass switch.

R17 is your LED resistor, D7 is your LED. S4 and S5 are lugs of the switch that turn the LED off when in bypass. one of the S4 S5 things is actually just another ground. thats why you see two ground connections on the switch wiring in everyones builds. we are actually doing a lot of stuff point to point off board. your board has it setup so pretty much almost everything goes to the board. different ways of doing it. I dont like having a lot of wires going to the board if its gonna look cleaner the other way.

R17 is limiting the amount of power that goes to the LED so it doesn't burn. just run a wire from the d7 pad that is closest to r17 and hook it up to the long leg of the LED. the long leg always gets connected to pos or 9v+. the short leg always goes to ground. but you have to put a switch somewhere so we wire it to break the LED circuit right before it hits ground.

They gave me two LEDs. The little red one that's soldered to the board (d7) and a bigger one. Is the little red one for clipping or something or is it supposed to be the indicator?

If is the indicator I guess it's probably wired up wrong. If not, does that look right?

Officer Bukowski wrote:They gave me two LEDs. The little red one that's soldered to the board (d7) and a bigger one. Is the little red one for clipping or something or is it supposed to be the indicator?

If is the indicator I guess it's probably wired up wrong. If not, does that look right?

The little LED that is soldered to the board as D7 is correct and you'll use the other one for the indicator.
Make sure the LED in D7 is oriented correctly though and it wouldn't hurt to desolder it, pull it closer to the board and resolder it.

Yeah my brother told me about the long leg = positive thing and we put it in right. I think he thought it was the indicator so that's why it's sticking up so high. We'll pull it closer.

I dont know why they gave you two led's but it makes sense that d7 is your on/off LED or indicator if thats what you call it. you got 9v>R17>LED>stompswitch>ground. usually when a PCB maker adds an LED to a schematic and puts it on board, it gets labeled as the first or last resistor. usually the last so it doesnt change anything from the original schematics floating around the web. hence R17, the highest number, the late comer to the party.

Yeah the whole LED thing had us particularly confused.

I'm really not sure about that. So if the little red one isn't the "indicator", where would the indicator go? Also if that is the indicator would I still have to wire a resistor to one of the legs or does the board accomodate that?

well you could put R17 and D7 on board, that would make it easier. then you just wire the S4 to the stomp switch as if it was the LED. S5 you dont need to wire. its just another ground. you can connect the stomp switch to any ground connection to complete the LED circuit. just like the diagram middleearth posted. that little led is optional maybe? I do see you have all 6 diodes in the picture you posted.

Ok so with this info and the GGG diagram that McSpunkle linked to I think I know what to do.

The thing that's still confusing me is the whole grounding thing. The GGG diagram has like 4 ground connections on the board but I just have the "gnd" and S5 apparently. Do I just somehow connect all the ground wires and run it to the ground on the board or the ground lug on the switch or something?