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Sounds like you might be dead on, that makes sense. It's definitely not oscillating.

Will it make much of a difference if I use a different value resistor in the spot such as a 1m or a different type of cap with the same value? Ceramic disk, metal film, etc?

Okay...I replaced them with a .1 ceramic disk, got a metal film just in case, and a 1m resistor. Now I'm getting a signal again. I moved around the transistor legs, but I'm not exactly sure which holes they should go in except for the base.

Problem is...the signal is not always coming through.

I have the DPDT wired the way it showed in the diagram, no wires touching, but the signal only comes through when I get the switch right in the middle where it is not supposed to be, it just makes a pop when i switch it to the sides. What could this be.

I used a multimeter and the switch isn't faulty. The signal also gets stronger when I touch both the transistor and the switch lugs with the same finger...

The spst on the resistor still gates it, get a little bit of a signal, but not much. The spst on the cap doesn't seem to be doing anything still.

Should I just reassemble the pedal, then do it one piece at a time?
Or...do you know what the problem is?

Maybe a diagram would be the best idea and I just suck at this?

Switch in the middle would probably disconnect the common from anything else, thus removing the transistor.

Pinout for a 2n2222:


If you have it wired wrong, it could just not be letting signal through. First time I did the mod, I messed up the leads of the transistor. If your multimeter has a diode mode, put one lead on the base of the transistor, and one on the collector. If nothing happens, reverse it. One direction should get you a reading of about .6 volts. Same with the base and emitter.

Use your multimeter again to check to make sure the wires are going to the right place. The base, emitter, and collector of the 2n2222 should connect directly to that of the last MPSA18.

Also check over things, like the input of the circuit. Make sure that connection is still strong and not shorting close to ground.

The 1M resistor would give less gain, but the circuit still functions normally. It might not oscillate as easily, though.

Here's an example of what the mods should sound like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZMbxWds1FM

Skip to two minutes. He never does GZ, though. It's all ZG. And when he says he flipped the noise switch, it was actually the chaos. (I did the mod, so I know).

He doesn't do the noise switch, unfortunately. ... there's a bass demo, too. I'll check and see.

When I read the switch with it in the middle it was using all 6 lugs, that is still the only way I can get any signal.

Frustration.

So, when you have the switch in the middle, all 6 lugs are connected together? That should mute the signal, actually. It'd short the output directly to ground.

Did you check the connections to make sure all the wires were actually connecting?

With the switch in one position, poke one lug of the switch (one of the ones with a wire going to it), and make sure it connects directly to either the collector or emitter of that last MPSA18. The other wire going to the switch should connect to the other side of the transistor. Then when you flip the switch, that should reverse. The bases should always be connected.

Alright, I'll give that a try tomorrow then. Thanks again for the help.