ilovefuzz.com

It's just showing that the in wire is overlapping but not connecting to the ground. Confusing, I know

OKAY WORKS NOW

yeah that's pretty wacky of them to draw it up like that!

YAY! And yeah. I'm not so sure as to why they do that, cause putting that dot like they did usually means there is a connection. Glad it works for you though!

yeah i'm excited... 4th successful build

i'm not sure what i want to do next though.

I've still yet to try a phaser. TRY A PHASER PEW PEW

oh yeah that could be fun. i don't even know what the hot phasors are, i've got a sweet one in my amp so i never really looked into it.

Well now you can at least learn from that. If you send the signal to ground you get no sound. Volume controls work by changing the amount of resistance between your signal and ground. When there's no resistance, the signal goes directly to ground and you hear nothing.

For the phaser, I'd wait for the Madbean Small Stone board to come out. I've seen on the que on the right they've had an "OTA based phaser" board in the works for a while. I can't wait to build one and mod the crap out of it.

So how's that trem sound?

yes, always learning. signal to ground no sound.

the trem is cool! it's really choppy, which isn't quite my style, but it's for a friend so hopefully they can get down with that. it would be cool if the rate could go a little slower. i can prolly change that right?.. not quite sure how though. i'm still waiting on enclosures in the mail so i have time to mod it while i wait.

Try reducing the value of R17. That should drop the minimum rate a bit but also the max rate. Maybe replace it with a 5k trimmer wired as a variable resistor (using only lugs 3 and 2 or 1 and 2)

There are some caps you could increase the value of to make it slower in a slightly more "elegant" way, but I haven't figured out which ones yet.

If you change C7 & C8 to 470n it will go almost twice as slow - but the max speed will also be reduced. A better way might be to change the pulse pot to 100k, but the LFO gets a little bit funky at the slower speeds (you probably won't notice it though).

Also if you change R15 to 18K you'll get a smoother trem. This turns the LFO from a square wave to a sine. (You could actually put a 10k pot in there and go from sine to square but keep the 4k7 resistor there if you do this)

mysteriousj wrote:If you change C7 & C8 to 470n it will go almost twice as slow - but the max speed will also be reduced. A better way might be to change the pulse pot to 100k, but the LFO gets a little bit funky at the slower speeds (you probably won't notice it though).

Also if you change R15 to 18K you'll get a smoother trem. This turns the LFO from a square wave to a sine. (You could actually put a 10k pot in there and go from sine to square but keep the 4k7 resistor there if you do this)

Those were the caps I was thinking of

Officer Bukowski wrote:

mysteriousj wrote:If you change C7 & C8 to 470n it will go almost twice as slow - but the max speed will also be reduced. A better way might be to change the pulse pot to 100k, but the LFO gets a little bit funky at the slower speeds (you probably won't notice it though).

Also if you change R15 to 18K you'll get a smoother trem. This turns the LFO from a square wave to a sine. (You could actually put a 10k pot in there and go from sine to square but keep the 4k7 resistor there if you do this)

Those were the caps I was thinking of

word. totally doing this. thanks guys!


...is it possible to add a toggle for square and sine!?

you could run a DPDT switch off of R15 and run the stock resistor on one side and the 18k on the other!

could i use an SPDT?

A DPDT would be more ideal, but since you've already got the resistor down on the board you could always put a different value resistor attached to the SPDT on either side of the switch