Help with a borked bypass

[The4455]

I think first we'll have to find out the meaning of the word "apposed".[/quote]
gosh

The4455, that class sounds interesting, what all did you guys do? As for the cold solder, the dull ones are typically the culprit. Side note, ROHS solder is somewhat dull looking regardless of a good/bad joint, in my experience.[/quote]

It was more focused on building circuits using logica gates, testing them in a program called multi-sim and breadboarding them. And Ohm's law and Kerchawf's law and stuff. It was FUN! but I am still a noob.

[Psyre]

well my soldering iron broke so I'm gonna pick a new one up when I get back from out of town, which joints should I be looking at again?

[Jero]

well my soldering iron broke so I'm gonna pick a new one up when I get back from out of town, which joints should I be looking at again?

All of them, but start with the switch/s, test, and go from there.

[in_sherman]

i think a solder joint can actually be somewhat resistive if you move the whole thing significantly while it's solidifying. good luck!

[schrodingersgoldfish]

You should start at the dirty chan bypass footswitch, as it seems to be not working when you have dirty bypassed.

If you have a multimeter, set it to continuity. set the DC to bypass, and put one prong on the lug of the DC footswitch where your guitar input goes and the other prong on the lug that has the wire that connects it to the other footswitch. If it comes up negative, test the two lugs that are joined by that short bit of wire, this is the actual bypass. I'm guessing the solder's gone bad on that little bit.

If you don't have a multimeter, just try re-soldering that little wire between the two lugs in the bypass. If you can, get a desolder pump or desoldering braid and remove the old solder and put some fresh stuff on there.